Yeah the whole idea of a basic logic electronic board set to do certain things when certain voltages are present at different times...

Without being an absolute expert or having all the technical diagrams and information about both ECUs and engines, I would think it nearly impossible for the average person?

Quoted from TBOWGN

Honestly, after owning one of each, with all the weight and the AWD drivetrain, if you put a 20Valve in you will be a little disapointed.
Even with the car being AWD, in first gear I could wheel spin my front tyres with the torque of just a standard 4agze, it'll put your head back!!
Plus you can wind the boost up with a supercharger, you cant do that with a 20V

I'd be interested to hear about performance otherwise. ie. i'm not really keen on spinning my wheels. it would be nice to know how each (ZE vs. 20V) impact the midrange, high RPM, towing, fuel economy etc.

From what I read on Bill Sherwoods page it seems like if you want to go nuts with performance then the 16v is the way to go, but if you're sticking to relatively minor mods then the 20v is the best bang for your buck.

Also interested about the decision to put in the HD clutch. So happens I just replaced a clutch in a 20v ST AE95 - the friction plate was broken (though new). I went for a standard clutch as the HD one was going to set me back about as much as the car. I'm wondering if I've just done my dough and will be getting the engine hoist out again soon.... or if you just went down this road for completeness - not necessity?

You could go black or silvertop 20valves & if so I would definitely advise using a heavy duty clutch & matching flywheel because these engines have much higher compression ratios & rev a hell of a lot higher than the 4afe.

Ultimately I still back the 4agze

By the way guys - I've changed plans & have bought a lot of parts & am currently building a hybrid from 3 engines.
4agze
7afe
3sg(t)e

The resulting engine is called a 7a gze - 1.8L sc14 supercharged