I'm not sure if you guys have seen this site:
http://www.turbocorolla.com/cars/larsc.htm
but it got me thinking about what needs to be done for a 20v or 4agze swap. It seems like it may be fairly straightforward.

Perhaps nobody on here has done it themselves, but I was curious if anyone has any information about it (maybe a link?).

So far all I've managed to dig up is something about bolt pattern on the flywheel between the 4af and the 4ag and some kind of ribbing on the block.

Quoted from Jcmcc

I'm not sure if you guys have seen this site:
http://www.turbocorolla.com/cars/larsc.htm
but it got me thinking about what needs to be done for a 20v or 4agze swap. It seems like it may be fairly straightforward.

Perhaps nobody on here has done it themselves, but I was curious if anyone has any information about it (maybe a link?).

So far all I've managed to dig up is something about bolt pattern on the flywheel between the 4af and the 4ag and some kind of ribbing on the block.

Funny, we both posted the same link at the same time.  I came across Lar's page several years ago, and just dug up the link from my bookmarks.  Notice that he has a strut bar.  If he can do it, so can we . . .

Hello all,

I've got a 90 all trac wagon in the ever popular red/maroon color. I just picked up a 20v engine the other day and am planning the swap for this coming march/april. I'll keep y'all updated on how it goes.

Anyone know hoe much power the stock clutch and tranny can take? If it is similar to the celica all trac than I'm all set...otherwise time to start looking

From actual users' experiences (as on TurboCorolla site and ToyotaCorollaModifications.com site), it appears that the drivetrain can handle the extra power,
but probably or most definitely not to the extent of a Celica All-Trac.  Cuzman (the guy at http://www.turbocorolla.com) explains this on his postings of this mods.
I'm sure if you look there are others who have done the same.

adammtb, definitely interested in your project! Let me know what kind of things you encounter!

My 4afe is still very healthy, but we'll see how it handles a summer of autocross.. I just want an excuse for a 20v lol

Quoted from Jcmcc

adammtb, definitely interested in your project! Let me know what kind of things you encounter!

My 4afe is still very healthy, but we'll see how it handles a summer of autocross.. I just want an excuse for a 20v lol

Here is another example of a 20v engine swap from Australia.  http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=24643.  I don't like the wheels; they look plastic to me.

Good luck with the 20v, plenty of people have done it, not so many in a 4-track... There's a few different types of 20v's as well & from what I've read on other sites, they're not all created equal.

The common consensus from a few aussie guys I've contacted who've done alltrac conversions is to go the 4agze route.

The 20v is said lack power/torque down low but all good in the higher gears.

None the less I'm sure you'll enjoy more grunt than the 4afe especially if you upgrade the exhaust when you're doing the conversion.

I just came across this thread on rollaclub.com as well:
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18903

This caught my eye:

If you wanted to drop in a replacement engine, you should chat to Tim (zmit) as he's got an AE92 Corolla Seca for sale with a reconditioned 4A-F. Other engine swaps are possible (and easy to do), like a 4A-GE, either sixteen valve or twenty valve, or a 4A-GZE, which is a supercharged version of the sixteen valve engine. The 7A-FE would also go straight in to give you a 1.8L engine instead of a 1.6L.

I think my wagon, in a year or two, may be in line for a 4A-GZE. haha =)

sorry to bring up an older thread (not too old i guess since it was the 5 1 down from the top) but in swapping the motor, i know you need to do the ecu as well.  i am planning to purchase an all-trac sedan from a local fellow and do a 4agze swap when i have the chance to.  the problem is that the sedan now is an auto trans, and like 98% of the 4agze engine and ecu combos are for manual trans.  so my question is, with the ecu and the push button awd on an auto trans, will there be a problem with using the ecu from the manual donor car?  thanks for the insight guys!

I think I would be also worried about the drivetrain handling the power from the engine...

yes upon further research, ive seen and decided that a gze engine will not work.  many people have posted that the drivetrain is flimsy for that much power.  they recommend going turbo instead.  either 4afte or gze to gte.  gze to gte takes some modding, but a** i understand it, it is less than doing fte, and you can get bigger gains out of it.  just boost below 8psi.  still out on the ecu dillema though.  i know it could be solved by getting a manual trans, but im sure its going to be near impossible to find.

Quoted from sr5punk

yes upon further research, ive seen and decided that a gze engine will not work.  many people have posted that the drivetrain is flimsy for that much power.  they recommend going turbo instead.  either 4afte or gze to gte.  gze to gte takes some modding, but a** i understand it, it is less than doing fte, and you can get bigger gains out of it.  just boost below 8psi.  still out on the ecu dillema though.  i know it could be solved by getting a manual trans, but im sure its going to be near impossible to find.

20cents worth..

I've read exactly the opposite in other corolla forums. The AE95 standard drive drain is unusually strong for a car of it's size & engine capacity.
It's true, the supercharger on a 4agze gives you a good start at low rev ranges & this does mean extra pressure on the drivetrain but keep in mind the power going to your front wheels really spreads the load, so the added load you're talking about is within normal parameters. Plenty of manufacturers have upgraded new models with small roots type superchargers like the sc12 without changing the existing drive train.

I am guessing...  but from all I've read it's unlikely to do any serious damage to the drive train, unless you're repeatedly redlining & then dumping the clutch!

The one person I know who's put the 4agze into an AE95 is Lars who's responsible for the australian green machine seen web-linked in a few other alltrac threads. He also built a naturally aspirated one with either a silver or blacktop 4age a few years back... (can't remember off the top of my head)

But he wanted even more power, so he removed the super charger from a 4agze & turbo'd it because the 4agze has the strongest internals of all the 4a engines
(not sure what size turbo)

So that's another thing... "what size turbo are you planning to fit?"
Maybe you could upgrade the clutch plate if you really wanted to but from the research I've done, the drive train's pretty solid. Keep in mind the comparatively low factory 1st gear ratio that the alltrac comes with tends to protect the drive train too.

You're right not to bother trying to make a 4afte. The engine's built for economy, is lighter than the others & not even a true double overhead cam, it's actually a slave cam on one side, doesen't have the extra re-inforced ribbing on the engine block that the others do, there's a good chance it'd blow.

Re: ECU, your best bet is to buy a complete front cut of a car that has the engine you want, that way you get all the extra bits you need. OR you can keep an eye out online, sometimes people sell engine, ECU & fuel pump set ups

Cheers!

Good Luck!

I've just emailed a wreckers yard to see what they want for this old MR2 hopefully it's still got the 4agze & all the components I'll need with it.

It's been online for 5 months & had about 156 views

I've been considering an engine swap someday... I think the key will be to take it easy on the drivetrain.  Just because you can punch it like no other, does not mean you should.  At least not all the time.

I agree, there's not point reving it above 6k & then dumping the clutch but as I said before, the load does go to all 4 wheels, not just the rear, so you're already safer than most 2wd rev-heads anyway...

&

If you click on Lars's link again

http://www.turbocorolla.com/cars/larsc.htm

you'll see on the drive train he says:

Driveline:       Standard 4wd gearbox, CV's and driveline, heavy duty clutch

Next time you're driving down the road take a look at the size of some rear axles then pop your head round the back of your car, or underneath if you prefer to look at the drive line as well...
You'll notice the AE95's axle ( & driveline's ) very solid for the vehicle's size & horse power of the engine.

A heavy duty clutch plate's all you need to take the extra load of more kilowatts / horsepower ..& you'll see, that's the one item he mentions...

Just found out THE MR2 in the picture's's an early model that came naturally aspirated with a 4a ge engine in it:

Still more powerful than what we have in our wagons

Here's what they say about the MR2 4AGE engine Courtesy of wikipedia

4AGE
As a power plant, Toyota chose to use the naturally aspirated 4A-GE 1587 cc straight-4 engine, which was the first mass-produced dual overhead-cam, four-valve-per-cylinder motor.[5]  This engine was also equipped with DENSO electronic port fuel injection and a variable intake geometry ("T-VIS"), giving the engine a maximum power output of 112 horsepower (84 kW) in the US, 128 horsepower (95 kW) in Europe, 118 horsepower (88 kW) in Australia and 130 metric horsepower (96 kW) in Japan, later downrated to 120 PS (88 kW).


4AFE
The 4A-FE is basically the same as the 4A-F (introduced in the previous generation of Corollas), the most apparent difference being the electronic fuel injection system as noted by the E.

    * Engine displacement: 1.6 liters (1587 cc)
    * Layout: DOHC Inline-4 (Straight-4)
    * Valves: 16, 4 for each cylinder
    * Power: 105 hp (78 kW) @ 5800 rpm (AUSTRALIA)
      (Europe/Japan spec: 115 PS (85 kW; 113 hp) @ 6000 rpm)
    * Torque: 101 ft·lbf (137 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
    * Redline: 6300 rpm
    * Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

Note: power and torque specs are from the 1988–1992 North American Corollas.

The 4A-FE is different from the 4A-GE in terms of performance and power.

Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that the 4AFE employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt).
Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. Power rating varied from 100–105 hp in the US market. Late-model engines are rumored to make slightly greater power but still received a 105 hp rating.

Although not as powerful as the 4A-GE, both engines are renowned for the power they produce from such a low displacement relative to other engines. Toyota engineers had skillfully optimized the power and torque from the company's relatively low-displacement engines.

You sir, are giving me more and more confidence about eventually doing a swap! =D

Especially considering I never dump my clutch, thats just silly!

Remember, the 4afe only produces 78kw - about 105 hp - probably less on worn out 20 year old vehicles, so any of the older 4age engines will bolt in fine & the power difference will be a modest improvement.
Unless you're choosing the later model silver tops or black tops, adding a turbo or going the 4agze supercharged option you won't even need to put in a heavy duty clutch plate.

I'm no expert ... roughly speaking... the general 4age pecking order from 1983 to 1991 goes something like this:

Original 4age TVIS big port (black & blue lettering nick named 'blue top') - Cheap as chips to buy, old tough, good for turboing but no torque at low rpm's, produces 112 hp (84 kW) at 6600 rpm. TVIS stands for Toyota Variable Induction System, it's a twin air intake system with butterfly valve intended to improve the low-end torque but some people say TVIS stands for This Version Is Sh*t.... I'd recommend custom fabricating a larger plenum & long intake runners like the 1st gen 4afe has, this would improve the low end torque.

The 2nd-gen 4A-GE was pretty much the same (black & blue lettering also) & started around 1987 The engine block had a few more ribs making it stronger & there was a few minor mod's. Performance was only increased to 115 hp (86kW)   only 3 more horse power  so.... there's not a lot of difference. It's a bit younger & stronger than the original.. cheap & a little bit better suited to turbo or higher psi because of stronger block.



3rd gen (Black & red lettering- nick named 'redtop') started around 1989 & would be my pick of the bunch for anyone in this forum looking to do an uncomplicated straight swap.
They got rid of the complex TVIS twin intake set up, increased the compression & reduced the diameter of the ports (aka small port).
This improved the torque & power band to 100 kW 140 hp

...Now compare that to a tired old 4afe chugging out roughly 75kw 97hp ..throw in a service, tune & some exhaust headers & you'll think you're driving a different car alltogether!
BTW all 4age crank shafts are forged & I've read some are even stronger than those found in V8 chevs - but can't confirm..



Also around 1987 there's the 4agze used in formula atlantic racing & comes with all sorts of super strong internals, more ribs on the engine block, ceramic piston heads & of course the sc12 supercharger
This baby produced 107kW 143 bhp to 121 kW 163 hp depending on the car / drive train intake exhaust etc..
A simple change of super charger pulley wheel can produce even more power from roughly 165hp121 kW to 125 kW; 168hp
Of course these engines are the most expensive of all the 4a** series

The 4th gen   1991 to 1995   was the silvertop, the most significant difference being the 20valves instead of 16 ..plus a higher compression ratio, creating an   'arguable'   120 kW 160 hp.
The price is reflected in the horsepower "mid-range"

The peak in 4age evolution is the 20valve black top which   'arguably'   produced  121kW 163hp  by improved computer technology & squeezing in an even higher compression ratio.
People do turbo the black & silvertops but because they're already highly tuned apparently it's more difficult than turboing any of the earlier models.


http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-4AGE-Guide/A_2733/article.html

I can't wait to see your pics and hear about how to do it! Please, try and keep as detailed of records as possible to help us in the future! =D

yeah..., I've definitely been bitten by the 'mod' bug. I won a turbo today suited to a 2Litre engine at a terrific price ..... not sure I will go turbo if I get a 4agze... but it was suitable well priced & in my local area so I won't have to pay for postage.


I've also found a 4agze but there's 4 days to go.... so we'll see how much the price goes up.

I have to draw up a plan of all my mod's & take them to a local engineer to make sure everything's legal.




You know for people who just want more out of their 4afe,

I'd recommend:

1) run a cleansing treatment through your fuel system a couple of times - this should free up your engine & injectors a bit.

2) change your oil filter for the largest compatible one you can find - increases flow & doesn't get clogged as quick as a standard one

3) Run a cleanser through your oil system, then change your oil - use synthetic - it's worth it

4) change your fuel filter - it's 20 years old.. & yes fuel does have dirty impurities that build up in the filter over time

5) install a cold air intake with high flow filter - use google to learn more

6) get some performance headers

All these are reasonable & can be done on a budget bit by bit if you don't have the money to spend all at once.

Quoted Text

3rd gen (Black & red lettering- nick named 'redtop') started around 1989 & would be my pick of the bunch for anyone in this forum looking to do an uncomplicated straight swap.  They got rid of the complex TVIS twin intake set up, increased the compression & reduced the diameter of the ports (aka small port).
This improved the torque & power band to 100 kW 140 hp

This one interests me... I definitely want to upgrade my A-T someday.  I'm thinking when it hits 200k miles, I will consider a swap instead of a rebuild as I was originally planning.  That gives me a few more years to think about it / save up for it.  I would definitely upgrade the exhaust along with the engine swap.

One of my main concerns would be the ECU... I'm wondering if there are chipped ECUs being done for these Toyotas like there are for the Hondas?  I ended up buying a chipped ECU for my del Sol, even though I'm just running a stock engine, because my original ECU died.  I'm going to do a swap in the Sol sometime hopefully in the next year.  Anyways my other concern with a Toyota ECU is the All-Trac aspect, if that would affect the ECU and its basemap.

If you do go the red top, that's a 25% gain in hp on the engine swap alone, you'll gain another 5-10% by upgrading your exhaust, so a 30 - 35% gain in hp's nothing to scoff at.

I don't know about ECU chipping - Can you explain more about it?

I've read some threads where they say chipping is just a scam.. but I really don't even know the most basic details about ECU chips.

What I will say is that when you decide to buy an engine make sure you buy a complete package with wiring loom ECU & so forth

Quoted from dylangumby

I can't wait to see your pics and hear about how to do it! Please, try and keep as detailed of records as possible to help us in the future! =D

There's already some good threads & webpages out there - here ..try this one

http://www.ae92gts.com/gze/gze_main.html

The idea of a chipped ECU is that you can have almost any engine basemap burned onto the removable chip.  It's an EPROM chip I believe... for my del Sol's chipped ECU, right now it has a D16z6 (the stock engine) basemap, but I could easily bring it to the guy I bought it from and have him throw a new basemap on the chip (like a B18, H22, etc) if I was doing a swap.  Then there's tuning, which is bringing your car and a tuner (a guy with the know-how) to a dyno to make the engine run as efficiently as possible with air/fuel ratios, and other things I'm not too sure about because I'm still learning  

Yeah, I would definitely get an engine complete with ECU and wiring harness if/when I buy one down the line.  I'm wondering how much having an All-Trac will affect the wiring harness and ECU... I need to check out that link you posted to someone who has an A-T and did a swap...

Quoted from JedzWagn

There's already some good threads & webpages out there - here ..try this one

http://www.ae92gts.com/gze/gze_main.html

Great link! I meant to try and keep note of anything particular pertaining to the All Trac, I'm sure theres a couple small differences from "the Blue Bomber" sedan to our All Tracs!

Well guys, finally I've done it...

I found an early model 4AGZE engine, been sitting in a garage for about ten years with 85K on it, so should be in pretty good nick.

I hand cranked it - still moves ok, so that's a good sign.

Just paid for an engine stand - pick it up this week.

The guy who sold me the engine was great - he was going to build his second lotus kit car which only way weigh 500kg! Sounded like a death trap & his girlfriend agreed hence his engine sat in the garage for so many years.

He threw in heaps of extras including a workshop manual & a few spare alternators & throttle bodies.

Don't get too excited guys - I move like a snail.

1st stage is to set up the garage into a decent workshop.

Still deciding whether or not to strip the engine right down & get it ported then rebuild it & do all the metal polishing myself. (I used to be a silversmith so high finish metal polishings no prob)

Just getting all the weblinks & info I've sourced over the last 18months into organised groups for reference including local government approved engineers etc.

Got a mate coming over on the weekend to help me sort out the shed..

In the mean time I'm really hoping to find a model with a straight body & sunroof at the wreckers.... there's now way I'm paying for a new sunroof or installing one of ebay

I'll let you know how it goes

Awesome... great find!

Quoted from dylangumby

I can't wait to see your pics and hear about how to do it! Please, try and keep as detailed of records as possible to help us in the future! =D

... actually I hear a rumour there's an aussie guy who's keen on joining this forum - his 4agze AE95 4WD Wagon build is the most detailed i know of ... he made a few changes all over... hopefully he'll post some pics up & encourage more alltrac owners to get creative

Good Luck with it Jedz. You've obviously done heaps of research. I'm off to japan to work for this snow season. hope it all goes well with the new engine.

Quoted from JedzWagn

hopefully he'll post some pics up & encourage more alltrac owners to get creative

Indeed 4agze is the way to go, due to the heavy 4wd drive-train in our wagons you will need the extra torque from the 4agze to get things moving. The n/a 4age's are not a massive upgrade in terms of big improvement/noticeable difference. Thats coming from fellow modifiers who have completed 20v 4age conversions.
Ultimately bolt in 4agze bare motor and turbocharge it for great results

Quoted from DownUnderRolla

Good Luck with it Jedz. You've obviously done heaps of research. I'm off to japan to work for this snow season. hope it all goes well with the new engine.

Aaaah... so are you a snowboarder as well???

Welcome Kebin! Thanks for joining..

Anyone interested in doing a conversion - definitely click Kebin's link .. there's a bit of a registration process but it's worth it ....

I'm off to the shed...

catchya's L8r

I showed a friend this, and he was saying, why not just turbo the 4A-FE?

Quoted from Rogue

I showed a friend this, and he was saying, why not just turbo the 4A-FE?

The 4afe was designed for economy, not power... so in short terms 4afe's are junk.
refer wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A-FE

Quoted from Rogue

I showed a friend this, and he was saying, why not just turbo the 4A-FE?

There's a few Sth Africans who are well into turboing 4AFE's but in just about all cases it's the second gen 4AFE.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347843

& there's a well renowned guy Bill Sherwood who's got some good use out a 4AFE too
[url]
http://www.billzilla.org/starleteng.htm[/url]

But... b4 U get too excited... to my knowledge all ATW's are 1st gen 4AFE.

I'm sure you could do it in a mild fashion.. in the past many factory vehicles were fitted with turbo without changing the engine...

It depends on what you want to achieve - you can't compare GZE's black & silvertops to AFE's

7AFE & 4AFE engines just aren't built for high compression kw's & HP

Fit a turbo to these engines & you'll always be wondering just how close to breaking point you are

What a beautiful All Trac!!!! WOW!

All you snowboarders should be living where I am: I can drive to Banff or Lake Louise in about 2hrs.

Honestly, after owning one of each, with all the weight and the AWD drivetrain, if you put a 20Valve in you will be a little disapointed.
Even with the car being AWD, in first gear I could wheel spin my front tyres with the torque of just a standard 4agze, it'll put your head back!!
Plus you can wind the boost up with a supercharger, you cant do that with a 20V

Thanks again you guys, for the info and insight.  There might be a few more turbo'd AE95s out there because of you!

Quoted from dylangumby

All you snowboarders should be living where I am: I can drive to Banff or Lake Louise in about 2hrs.

Would love to snowboard in canada

Maybe... life's not over yet..

Quoted from Rogue

Thanks again you guys, for the info and insight.  There might be a few more turbo'd AE95s out there because of you!

Do it Rogue  

.. Be the 1st in America...

Quoted from JedzWagn

If you do go the red top, that's a 25% gain in hp on the engine swap alone, you'll gain another 5-10% by upgrading your exhaust, so a 30 - 35% gain in hp's nothing to scoff at.

I don't know about ECU chipping - Can you explain more about it?

I've read some threads where they say chipping is just a scam.. but I really don't even know the most basic details about ECU chips.

What I will say is that when you decide to buy an engine make sure you buy a complete package with wiring loom ECU & so forth

----------

Edit: having done some more research, I've found there are no ECU chips made specifically for our corolla's, however I don't know if a chip for a similar engine could be used..

Quoted from dylangumby

I just came across this thread on rollaclub.com as well:
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=18903

This caught my eye:

If you wanted to drop in a replacement engine, you should chat to Tim (zmit) as he's got an AE92 Corolla Seca for sale with a reconditioned 4A-F. Other engine swaps are possible (and easy to do), like a 4A-GE, either sixteen valve or twenty valve, or a 4A-GZE, which is a supercharged version of the sixteen valve engine. The 7A-FE would also go straight in to give you a 1.8L engine instead of a 1.6L.

I think my wagon, in a year or two, may be in line for a 4A-GZE. haha =)

If some one's feeling creative, they could always go the sc14 7agze route

Here's what's involved:

http://www.superchargerperform.....ota-a-series-engines

A few people round the globe have actually done it..

Quoted from JedzWagn

----------

Edit: having done some more research, I've found there are no ECU chips made specifically for our corolla's, however I don't know if a chip for a similar engine could be used..

Uh, why would you need one specifically for our wagon aren't all the ECUs the same?

If I was to do a swap, I would put a later 4AFE in and try and obtain a leanburn ECU from a Caldina or whatever they came in you would get some nice MPG then.

What ever motor you swap in you shouls ALWAYS get the accompanying ECU & wiring loom.

If your focus is economy, them by all means go for a 2nd gen 4afe set up or a 7afe set up just make sure you get a whole engine package ..mixing & matching ECU's can be a head F**K & sometimes won't work at all

Yeah the whole idea of a basic logic electronic board set to do certain things when certain voltages are present at different times...

Without being an absolute expert or having all the technical diagrams and information about both ECUs and engines, I would think it nearly impossible for the average person?

Quoted from TBOWGN

Honestly, after owning one of each, with all the weight and the AWD drivetrain, if you put a 20Valve in you will be a little disapointed.
Even with the car being AWD, in first gear I could wheel spin my front tyres with the torque of just a standard 4agze, it'll put your head back!!
Plus you can wind the boost up with a supercharger, you cant do that with a 20V

I'd be interested to hear about performance otherwise. ie. i'm not really keen on spinning my wheels. it would be nice to know how each (ZE vs. 20V) impact the midrange, high RPM, towing, fuel economy etc.

From what I read on Bill Sherwoods page it seems like if you want to go nuts with performance then the 16v is the way to go, but if you're sticking to relatively minor mods then the 20v is the best bang for your buck.

Also interested about the decision to put in the HD clutch. So happens I just replaced a clutch in a 20v ST AE95 - the friction plate was broken (though new). I went for a standard clutch as the HD one was going to set me back about as much as the car. I'm wondering if I've just done my dough and will be getting the engine hoist out again soon.... or if you just went down this road for completeness - not necessity?

You could go black or silvertop 20valves & if so I would definitely advise using a heavy duty clutch & matching flywheel because these engines have much higher compression ratios & rev a hell of a lot higher than the 4afe.

Ultimately I still back the 4agze

By the way guys - I've changed plans & have bought a lot of parts & am currently building a hybrid from 3 engines.
4agze
7afe
3sg(t)e

The resulting engine is called a 7a gze - 1.8L sc14 supercharged