Yes, coincidentally, I just fixed my clutch and flywheel last week; it was the original clutch and lasted 202,000 miles. Here is a summary of what I found:
The clutches and flywheels for the All-Trac wagons are NOT the same as those for non-All-Trac Corollas; according to my service manual, the clutch and flywheel are heavier duty to handle the more complicated drivetrain.
All the major clutch manufacturers make clutches and flywheels for the All-Trac wagons. I'm not sure who makes the genuine All-Trac clutch, but I suspect it is Exedy/Daikin; Luk and Sachs also make clutches. Clutches are often sold as kits, because it is more cost- and time-effective to replace all the parts at once rather than piecemeal as needed. The kits do NOT include the flywheel, however. The part numbers for the All-Trac wagon-specific clutch kits are:
Exedy/Daikin: 16065 Luk: 16-065 Sachs: KF722-01
My own preference is for Exedy/Daikin or Luk since they tend to be OEM for these cars; Sachs is mostly for European cars.
Discounted clutch kits can be found on eBay or through local distributors.
If your flywheel is in good shape, the ring gear can removed and either flipped, or if not in good shape, then then entire flywheel can be resurfaced at an auto machine shop and then flipped. Resurfacing is often done on a brake resurfacing machine and does thin out the flywheel, and some say weaken it. Alternately, if the flywheel is too thin or damaged, a new one can be bought for less than $200.
While you have the transmission separated from the motor and the flywheel is out for resurfacing, it may be a good time to check and, if necessary, replace the rear main seal, since it is there when you remove the flywheel. Some experts also recommend that one inspect the transmission input shaft and output shaft for problems, but replacing any parts inside necessitates opening up the transaxle housing.
Other things to check while the transmission/clutch are out: speedometer cable, back up switch, and drain and refill the transaxle oil. Any good 80W-90 transmission oil will work; Toyota no longer recommends one (at least all of the dealers with whom I spoke said so).
Well my last post didn't go through correctly. It was supposed to have a section on performance clutches.
For performance clutches, try Carolina Clutch and Performance. Exedy 16954B. I'm told, however, to be careful with performance clutches unless the drivetrain is in top shape to handle it.
wow awesome information!! I am very curious because I am planning on vigorous autocrossing this summer and my clutch doesn't feel as strong as I would like it to (although it does not slip)
How heavy is the stock flywheel? To me, it seems like it might be pretty beefy. I hate always having to pause a bit before letting the clutch back out when driving. I didn't find anything on google about light flywheels, so I'm guessing they are not an option?
The stock All-Trac flywheel is thicker than the non-All-Trac flywheel, and, if in good shape, can probably be re-used. Thanks for the link on Street Performance link; I opted for the regular clutch and flywheel on my All-Trac; I didn't see a need for too much performance in a DD. If the original did 202K, then perhaps the new one will last a long time as well. I put in a Luk 16-065; it came with a long warranty, so that was the deal-breaker versus the Exedy/Daikin.
Did you check out [url]ClutchMasters.com[/url]? They have some performance clutches for the All-Trac. I'll have to check them out in person; they are within 70 minutes driving time from me.
Yes, coincidentally, I just fixed my clutch and flywheel last week; it was the original clutch and lasted 202,000 miles. Here is a summary of what I found:
Exedy/Daikin: 16065 Luk: 16-065 Sachs: KF722-01
Which kit did you use? I used the Exedy/Daikin: 16065 kit. However, the pilot/release bearing that came with it was the wrong size. I let them know, but was in a hurry to finish the job and put the old one back in, it was in quite good condition for 260,000 miles. Also, I ordered a Beck/Arnley flywheel from rock auto, it was the wrong size and they had to change their catalog. I called beck/arnley directly, they had the right size clutches, but had no idea the flywheel was even a 2 step.
Which kit did you use? I used the Exedy/Daikin: 16065 kit. However, the pilot/release bearing that came with it was the wrong size. I let them know, but was in a hurry to finish the job and put the old one back in, it was in quite good condition for 260,000 miles. Also, I ordered a Beck/Arnley flywheel from rock auto, it was the wrong size and they had to change their catalog. I called beck/arnley directly, they had the right size clutches, but had no idea the flywheel was even a 2 step.
Sorry that you had so many problems with your clutch and bearing. 260,000 mies -- was that the original clutch? I went with the Luk clutch because it had a year warranty, although I was originally leaning toward the Exidy/Daiken. So far it has worked superbly, and I get more power on hills than ever before.
Well, I'm here with questions because of my stupidity with my Amazon wishlists (using them to "remember" car parts when I don't need them, and then receiving them as gifts!). I ended up having what seems to be the wrong clutch kit on my All-Trac wishlist (Exedy # 16074), but I was wondering if I would really even need to replace my clutch? Car has about 156k miles on it, seems to be fine to my semi-inexperienced manual driving ability. Is there a life span for the clutch? I see Datsa mentioned hitting 200k miles.
And on a related note... could this be a problem with my transmission? I've noticed that when I'm driving and have the car in 5th gear (at any speed), if I rest my hand against the shifter with slight pressure, and let my foot off the gas pedal, the shifter sinks forward a bit. Likewise if my foot is off the gas pedal, resting my hand against the shifter, and I press the accelerator a bit, I feel the shifter push out of its place a little. It doesn't do this in any other gear. Am I going to need a tranny rebuild soon? One of my co-workers has a similar year Celica and he has to use a bungee cord to keep his car in 5th gear.
And on a related note, I saw this in another topic:
Quoted Text
and watch for clunking in the drive train or suspension.
I was out driving with my friend and he noticed that sometimes there's a bit of a clunking sound when I'm shifting gears. He said the differential might have some slack (?). Yeah, I know, I need to get that Toyota Repair Manual. It's just a toss-up between getting a 1989 that might work for my wagon, or pay the $80 for a new, proper 1988 1/2 manual.
Also of note, why is this page stretched way beyond the screen width? Or am I having a browser issue?
Sorry that you had so many problems with your clutch and bearing. 260,000 mies -- was that the original clutch?
No idea, I have put maybe 1000 miles on the car.
Also, Rogue. As long as your trans isn't slipping out of gear, dont worry a whole lot. One thing that could cause that is the motor mounts being weak or loose, so possibly check that out. When I pulled the engine on mine, I had to basically tear out a motor mount but couldn't buy another one to replace it. I put it back in but it's not very stiff and assume that to be the cause for mine shimmy-ing forward and back.
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