So, I am now a bit confused. The All-Tracs have a transmission connected to a transfer case which connects to the propeller shaft.
Given that my All-Trac is manual transmission, I have some questions:
1) Are these two cases (transmission case and transfer case) connected internally as one chamber or are they separate chambers? The reason I ask is that my shop manual says to check the fluid level in the transfer with the dipstick, but I cannot find any dipstick for the transfer, only the oil dipstick.
2) If they are separate chambers, I assume this means that I have to check them and fill them up if they are low, but do so separately?
3) Are there separate drain holes for the transmission and transfer? And, if so, does this mean that they have to be filled up with lubrication separately?
4) The shop manual shows a bottom drain plug and a top plug for the transfer and gives a capacity of 0.8 quarts or thereabout. Does anyone know if this is correct i.e. the location of the plugs and the capacity?
Manual transmission and T-case are connected. The auto trans is not.
The dip stick is near the firewall in the middle... just take a look.
1982 Landcruiser BJ42 - 247 000km - The Primitive beast - complet frame off restoration in process 1985 Landcruiser BJ70 - 307 000km - The Green machine 1992 Corolla All-trac Wagon DX - 353 000km - R.I.P. Â
Manual transmission and T-case are connected. The auto trans is not.
The dip stick is near the firewall in the middle... just take a look.
So David,
So since my All-Trac has a manual transmission, does this mean that it should NOT have a dipstick? And those All-Tracs that do have auto trans should have a dispstick? I will look again, but so far cannot find any dispstick but my car is manual transmission.
Let me try in my rusty French:
David,
Parce que ma automovile a une transmission manuelle, cela veut-il dire qu'il n'y a pas de jauge? Et les automoviles qui ont une transmission automatique devrait avoir un dispstick?
I really do not know what to answer! I would say that what you write makes sense.
I had an All-trac manual 5 years ago ... and I do not remember if there was a dipstick.
If you searched and not found it ... perhaps... because there no dipstick for the t-case on manual trans. !
1982 Landcruiser BJ42 - 247 000km - The Primitive beast - complet frame off restoration in process 1985 Landcruiser BJ70 - 307 000km - The Green machine 1992 Corolla All-trac Wagon DX - 353 000km - R.I.P. Â
Thanks. I am assuming that there is no dipstick, so I'll just put some Mobil 1 into the filler hole on top of the transfer case; just a bit though -- I don't want to overfill the transfer.
I don't believe there's a dip stick at all. Here's basically what the repair manual says: On the front of the trans theres an access hole, it's like a 21mm hex (don't quote me on size), that you open up to check the fluid level. Once this is open, you should be able to put a finger in and feel the fluid level. To fill the trans, the same size hex is on top of the trans, pretty much under the air filter mount.
If the car has a manual trans, it won't have a dipstick for the transfer case. There are 2 drain plugs; one for the transmission and one for the transfer case. If you don't remove both plugs, you won't get all of the old gear oil out. The manual transmission and transfer case are connected and share the same oil, however. The transfer case will refill with oil when you fill the transmission.
hey i know this is an old thread but i just wanted to correct my post for accuracy. the drain and fill bolts (2 drain, 1 fill) are 24mm and you should use api gl-5 rated 80-90 gear oil.
also, alldata lists the total transaxle/xsfer case fluid capacity as 5.3 qts
Thanks for the info JC... so basically there is one hole to fill both the transmission and transfer case, but two holes to drain them, which both need to be popped loose in order to properly drain the gear oil?
I'm wondering is if the rear differential has oil? Sorry to ask an unenlightened question, but I have yet to get hold of a shop manual for my car. This is one of those things I worry about, in that I like to make sure of replacing things (oil change, sparkplugs, etc) when I buy a new (used) car.
Yes, 2 drain, 1 fill. The transfer case bolt is pretty obvious but i still missed it the first time.. it points straight towards the ground and has a little lip around the outside of it. I neglected to do the transfer case the first time around and was shocked at how much more fluid it took this time.
The rear diff takes the same fluid as the transmission/transfer case. the drain and fill bolts are 24mm also and are obvious in their location. MAKE SURE TO CRACK THE FILL PLUG FIRST otherwise you will not be driving the car lol
Thanks! Yeah, that makes sense, to make sure the fill can be removed before the drain is removed How much fluid is in the rear differential?
My shop manual says 1.2 quarts for the rear differential, but a better way is to simply fill up the rear diff so that gear oil "runs out of the filler hole" (quoting the manual). Make sure the car is on the level when you do this so that level inside the rear diff is correct.
I need to change mine this week, I'm approaching 200k and I have no idea when it was done last, I'm noticing some resistance when I shift as well, hopefully this will clear it up.
So,where is the filler hole? Under the air filter? Do I have to remove the air box to access it?
And to clarify, both drain bolts are 24mm, and point straight down?
[Current] 91 Sprinter Carib AVII - JDM R.H.D. - AE95 4A-FHE - 159,000km (98,800mi) [Old] 89 Corolla JDM R.H.D. All Trac - AE95 4A-FE - Murdered by T-Bone 01/18/11 @ 224,000km (139mi) - R. I. P.
You won't have to remove anything to access any of the bolts. The filler faces the front of the car on the front of the transmission and it points slightly downward. One drain bolt points straight down (transfer case drain) and the other faces the drivers side of the car on the side of the transmission. It will be right by the control arm on the drivers side. They very large bolts and will stick out to you once you get under the car and look at them.
Again, make sure to pop the filler BEFORE popping out the drain plugs otherwise you're SOL
OK, so yesterday I finally had a chance to change out my rear differential oil. I've recently bought a house, and have been very busy with that since around the time I originally planned to change out the oil (back in Feb I believe). Anyways I was trying to find the torque specs for the filler & drain bolts in the service manual, but can't seem to find them for the life of me. I'm pretty sure I did see them once before, but I must have forgotten to bookmark them. I ended up torquing them both to about 45 foot-pounds.
The filler bolt was a b**** to break loose, I had to remove a tire and use a cheater bar on my breaker bar! I'm guessing it was over-torqued by the previous mechanic. No way should it have been that tight (I'm not a big or strong guy, but if I had to guess I'd say it was over 120 ft-#s). The oil that came out was kind of brownish so I'm guessing it was due. There was some sludge on the drain bolt's magnet as well.
I'll be venturing into my garage for the front differential & tranny sometime soon. Hopefully it will be easier to fill than the rear diff.
I had the same problem on both my transmission filler case and my rear differential, and I also had to use a modified breaker bar inserted inside a pipe. Did you put on new washers/gaskets between the filler bolt and the housing and the filler bolt and the housing? My FSM calls for this. I got mine through one of the Toyota parts houses. I discovered that on my A-T, if you don't put on the filler washer/gasket, the filler and drain bolts don't fit snug, allowing transmission fluid to drip out. I believe the part # for the rear differential filler and drain plugs is: 12157‑10010. That is, both filler and drain plug take the same gasket.
Of course, you could always re-use the old gasket if it is not damaged and still makes a tight seal.
I was wondering about whether or not I should change out those gaskets. They looked fine so I just cleaned them up and re-used them... will keep an eye on them to make sure they don't leak. I just hope I used enough torque on the bolts.
Edit: Earlier today I finished changing the transfer case & transmission oil. When I went on a run to get gas, I could swear my wagon was driving better than usual. Would changing out the old gear oil for new oil really make that much of a difference? I also rotated my tires (fronts to rears and vice-versa), though my tires don't seem to be really worn out that much.