Thanks for the comments...the wheels are 14" MB Wheels that I was able to pick up at a local America's Tire for about $110 w/tires per corner thanks to a promotion the store was offering a few months back. It's a work in progress that right now has me a bit dumbfounded by the amount of oil it burned on it's maiden trip up to the mountains and back to San Francisco considering the replacement motor is supposed to have less than 50k on it. I had topped off the fluids before the run and after checking it upon returning realized that the dipstick was at the half way mark. Hmm. Also seemed a bit underpowered cresting the mountain passes. To date the project has cost me approx $2300.00 US including the $600 I paid for her with a blown rod (plus the cost of the wheels which I leave out of the equation as they were a cosmetic enhancement more that anything. It came with brand new 13" all weather Michellins on the stock wheelset with factory hub caps). Fortunately, the body is intact aside from some minor oxidation of the clear coat in a couple spots, which I think some Maguire's clay and a bit of elbow grease would take care of. No rust and the interior has been well cared for. I'll post a few more pictures once I get her cleaned up and the road grit off of her.

Quoted from rickyzee

Well, Gentlemen, Here's my Lake Tahoe Runner '92

Very nice -- and it seems to handle winter well. I wish mine was in half as decent shape; but, I've been putting my money toward school instead of maintenance.  Those 14" wheels make it look like it could handle anything.
How many miles on it?

The vehicle itself has about 190,000. But I replaced the motor with a used one from a local warehouse. It supposedly has less that 50k, but I'm finding that it is burning more oil than it should. It's a bit of a mystery as there is no residue on the plugs. The warehouse offered me another replacement but I am apprehensive as to swap it out will cost me another 500 bones which I really don't have right now. Fortunately I started off with a clean body and interior and relatively sound mechanical. As I've mentioned before, it's a work in progress and as long as I can have it completed for under $4000 I feel I will have come out ahead. On it's first winter run to Lake Tahoe, I did notice the less that ideal power of the motor, but you can't really go all that fast in the snow to begin with. And it is very sure footed in the snow, will be more so once I replace the struts (down the line sometime) which I believe are the originals from '92. As for the wheels, they can be had for not that much at Americas Tire.

Nice vehicle man....

As mentioned in another thread here's all the things I've done with my 1st gen 4afe - real simple stuff .. & YES it definitely makes a big difference - runs better than ever.

"You know for people who just want more out of their 4afe, I'd recommend:

1) run a cleansing treatment through your fuel system a couple of times - this should free up your engine & injectors a bit.
2) change your oil filter for the largest compatible one you can find - increases flow & doesn't get clogged as quick as a standard one
3) Run a cleanser through your oil system, then change your oil - use synthetic - it's worth it
4) change your fuel filter - it's 20 years old.. & yes fuel does have dirty impurities that build up in the filter over time
5) install a cold air intake with high flow filter - use google to learn more
6) get some performance headers

All these are a reasonable start & safe intro to modding. They can be done on a budget bit by bit if you don't have the money to spend all at once."

I also use high octane fuel - yes it costs a bit more but I value the result

One more mod I know of but haven't actually done:

1) Indexing your injectors - bit lengthy to explain but basically you mark a line on the top of the spark plug in line with the open point where the plug sparks.
Screw the plug back in by hand only, then using a torque wrench screw the plug in until the line you've marked is facing directly at the intake runner.
How this works: The 4afe is poorly ported & valved creating a slow combusting cylinder head, meaning the air/fuel mix doesn't spread evenly inside the head.
By facing the spark point of every plug as close to the intake runners as possible, ignition & burn time is improved

Thanks for those tips!  I will have to consider some of those soon, like the fuel & oil treatments.  The spark plug thing is interesting, never heard of that before, and will have to try that one sometime.  Fuel filters (there's two, one in the tank around the pump, the other in the engine bay) are on my short list, so that would be great to do before the fuel treatment for the injectors.

Cheers Rogue, I've just bought a 4agze engine, hopefully I have the dilligence to do a good write up on the whole conversion including photo's

So here is a link to someone's A-T that shows a horsepower of 175 but it does not say if the engine is a stock 4AFE or an upgrade.  Also, the displacement is listed as 1.3 L, which is smaller than the 4AFE.  I think Toyota made 1.3L engines for the Starlet, Echo, and Yaris, among others.
http://www.theautolog.com/profile.php?member=RacerDOHC16&vehicle=7514.
As far as a 4AGZE, that would be my future engine mod for me as well. . . when I have the money and assuming I can find one that is in good shape and reasonable.

For those of you who have 4AGZE engines, what sort of gas / petrol are you getting per liter or gallon?

Дл� тех из ва�, кто Toyota 4AGZE двигателей, какой газ / бензин вы получаете за литр или галлон?

Datsa, the only people on here that I'm aware of who've successfully completed 4agze conversions are Kebin & trbowgn & they're not on this forum very often.

Maybe you could PM them..

What I can say is that all 4age series engines were built for performance not economy so yeah..., your gonna lose some mileage.
Also the 4agze was designed to run on high octane fuel only. 98 I'm pretty sure, so this is also gonna cost more.
But the supercharger on a 4agze means the engine exerts less effort generating power during initial acceleration, so if you drive moderately with a mild amount of boost then your mileage will still be respectable.

----------

Re:link to someone's A-T that shows a horsepower of 175 but it does not say if the engine is a stock 4AFE or an upgrade.  Also, the displacement is listed as 1.3 L, which is smaller than the 4AFE.  I think Toyota made 1.3L engines for the Starlet, Echo, and Yaris, among others.
http://www.theautolog.com/profile.php?member=RacerDOHC16&vehicle=7514.

I suspect that 1.3 might be a typo, why would anyone down grade to a smaller literage only to modify for performance.
Plus 175 HP from a 1.3 sounds incorrect.
Agressive tuning & access to an engineering workshop + high octane fuel could get 175 HP out of a first gen 4afe

The 1.6Ltr 4afe came out standard with 105 HP, getting it up to 175 HP would be quite a challenge, getting 175HP from a 1.3Ltr engine just doesn't sound right...

A few things that are out there....

1) If you have an 88, or 89 model, you can swap the intake for a 90-92 model for improved low end torque, and a bit more hp



2) there are extractors available.... I'm currently TRYING to get an OEM Toyota manifold from the 1997+ 4AFE, it is a tube header



3) to go along with the extractor, Fujitsubo offers a mandrel bent exhaust system - http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/prods/detail/000000000000000912/00000000000000004478/00000209



Those are all "bolt-on" mods...

I just dismantled a late model intake from a newer generation 4afe & got some injectors from a 5sfe toyota engine.
(Much to my horror I got home & realised the 7afe engine I have already had the exact same intake! There goes 80bucks & 45minutes I'll never get back!)


Anyway...
I'll be swapping them over on my base model wagon as an experiment in the search of increased horsepower for all you guys who don't want to do a full conversion..
..meanwhile I continue with the 7agze engine build & search for an optioned up SR5 model.

My results will be anecdotal as I don't have a tacho & am not going to bother with a dyno tune (I do have a tacho dash I could swap in tough...hmmmn.. more sideline work!!!)

I'll keep you posted

Quoted from BAM

In addition to my all-trac wagon I also own a 2000 corolla with a 1zzfe motor. does anybody know if these new motors will bolt on to our transmission/tranfercasses?  the 1ZZFE makes 130 horse power as opposed to the wagons 105HP. In addition its all aluminum(light weight), Lager displacement(1.8L), it also gets 33+MPG (My all-trac gets around 27mpg at best). Is there a way we can convert updated technology to our beloved all-trac wagons?

The 1zzfe engine does not share the same engine mounts.
The 7afe should fit with some grinding of the block similar to how the block & transfer case on a 4AGE or 4AGZE would require a small amount of grinding.
It's mounting points are the same & so is the intake & runners. The only difference between late gen 4afe's & 7afe's is the 7afe is 15.4mm higher in the block. I'm not sure if the heads are any different at all. They look identical at first glance.
You'd have to fit in the entire 7afe system though, meaning the wiring loom & ECU because a 4afe ECU wouldn't be able to control the air fuel mix of a 1.8L engine

Quoted from rickyzee

Well, Gentlemen, Here's my Lake Tahoe Runner '92

i got those rims but there 13's see my sig there now painted black.

I think that style of wheel suits the alltrac wagon well.

I'm fitting some old skool mags to my granny spec runaround soon.

Will post pics once they're on.