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moving2
May 27, 2010, 4:32am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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Hello everyone,

I recently purchased an '89 Corolla Alltrac Wagon (Gray) w/ 183k mi. on it. Auto trans, no power windows/locks or sunroof, and no label on the tailgate so not sure which model. Will post pics in a few days. I've been scouring these forums and wishing it had more members, but I still have  quite a few questions I'm hoping you can help me with. Here goes:

0.  I'm planning a major baselining of the vehicle in the next few weeks including: muffler (it's gone), cv joints (1 boot broken), brake rotors/pads/drums/lines + bleed, air filter, fuel filter, distributor cap / rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, pcv valve, thermostat, power steering flush, tranny drain/fill + change filter, coolant flush, front/rear diff + transfer case drain/fill

1. From the description of my vehicle, can you make an educated guess as to the model trim it has? (e.g., DX, SR5, etc?)

2. I'm trying to find a factory service manual (FSM) for this vehicle. I've found some FSMs labeled "1989 Toyota Corolla"- would this include the Alltrac Wagon model, or is there a separate FSM for these vehicles?

3. I have the "Auto" switch in the middle of my dash, but the light doesn't come on when I press it. I read that it won't come on uner certain conditions like different tire sizes on at the same time, but I've just replaced the tires with 4 new 165SR80/13 tires so that's not the problem. Where do I begin diagnosing this?

4. I've read about suspension options on here, but I am unclear on what my options are for springs, shocks, and struts. I read someone put on some KYB 343149 shocks on the rear, but I'm looking for more information about springs and also the front suspension (struts)? Any idea what is compatible in terms of springs and struts?

5. My temperature control lever is very tough to move. It looks like the cable that leads from this lever to heater control valve has been replaced. Is this a common problem, and how do you go about fixing it?

6. The temperature gauge reads a little below the 3/4 mark (not at all in the red). Is this normal? I am used to seeing the temp. read dead center on my vehicles and I become concerned when I see it move due to the dead zones built into them. The gauge doesn't change much whether I'm on the freeway or in slow traffic or with or without AC, so it's tough to tell if it's radiator or water pump related. Any suggestions? Any recommendations for a place to get radiators / water pumps and such?

7. The factory oil recommendation is 10W-30 to 10W-40 for my (Los Angeles) temperatures. Do most people stick with these recommendations, or is there any benefit/harm to be gained/done by going with 5W-30 and 5W-40 instead?

8. The tranny fluid specification is "Type T" fluid. Will Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (multi-vehicle) cover this? It says it covers T-III and T-IV. What do most of you use when it comes to synthetic ATF?

9. Am I reading correctly that the front differential is spec'd for ATF?

10. Where might I find the cool "full time 4WD" decals I've seen on the mid-rear rocker area of some wagons?

11. I need misc. parts such as the little plastic pieces that go into the ends of the metal supports of the cargo area cover, the hood prop holder (plastic), rear seat folding knob (plastic), grill, etc etc. What is the best source to find these parts and will these parts (minus the grill) work from an '88-89 corolla (non-alltrac)?

12. On a related note, what parts are generally compatible between the 88-92 corolla alltrac wagons when it comes to interior / exterior / engine? For example, on the interior, will a '92 dash pad work on an '88 vehicle?  

13. Are the wheel bearings serviceable, or are they the permanently sealed type?

14. Are there any zerk fittings on the vehicle?

15. What are some good places for new or rebuilt CV joints and what is CV joint compatibility like with other models/years?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for a great place to get started with my new alltrac wagon!!
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dylangumby
May 27, 2010, 7:13am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator

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I'll answer what I can...others will pick away at the list too I'm sure! WELCOME TO THE FORUM! Great to have ya!

1. You will have a frame number and model number on a plate underneath the hood, from that we can tell what model you have.
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/index.php?doc=145 - Theres an example!

5. If its like bicycle or motorcycle throttle cables, it is a small diameter metal cable housed in a hard rubber casing, you can try WD-40, honestly.

6. I don't know about the others, but my gauge always reads in the middle, except on extremely cold days (-20C or below) when it can barely reach half unless it idles forever standing still.

7. I'm not a professional, and I think datsa will have a more valuable opinion on this one from what I remember of his location and mentioned driving habits, but unless you are using synthetic you should probably stick with a higher weight. For example, 5w30/40 will experience thermal breakdown at lower temperatures than 10w30.

11. The best way to answer many of these questions is to find out your model, and head over to http://www.toyodiy.com you can find the part numbers for the parts that you want, and then look at a base model corolla sedan and find out if the part numbers were the same! In many cases non AllTrac parts will fit, not for the grill though. My hood prop holder is also broken, and most of the ones in the junkyard here were similar, common Toyota problem it looks like? I use a piece of thread rod, looks tougher, sits between my headlights when the hood is down. =)

12. Almost all engine parts are transferable, many of the interior parts, not very many exterior parts are an exact fit, different press and trim lines but doors and panels will bolt on from what I know. http://www.toyotanation.com is a great source of info for some of these questions too!

14. There should be no zerk fittings as I was informed here: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338201


[Current] 91 Sprinter Carib AVII - JDM R.H.D. - AE95 4A-FHE - 176,000km (109,400mi)
[Old] 89 Corolla JDM R.H.D. All Trac - AE95 4A-FE - Murdered by T-Bone 01/18/11 @ 224,000km (139mi) - R. I. P.
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moving2
May 28, 2010, 7:28am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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dylangumby- thanks for the valuable info! Based on toyotadiy's webpage, it seems I have a DX model.

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datsa
May 29, 2010, 7:45pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator

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That's a long long list. I'll tackle a few items now, and a few items later.

0. Some of these items you can do yourself, depending on your mechanical inclination.  You can alway start with simple fixes: oil change, new air filter, new PCV valve, distributor rotor, cap & wires (they come as one piece), spark plugs, coolant flush; front, transfer & rear diff.  Maybe the muffler, depending on your expertise.  Brakes, too.

1. Most likely a DX, but do you have the name plate handy: on the driver's side door jamb or in the engine compartment on the firewall near the brake vacuum booster.  Using that model number (AE95-XXX) you can go to http://www.toyodiy.com and put in that information or look up Toyota Corollas of your same model year to see which  matches. Alas, this site used to have great exploded diagrams of Toyota vehicles but Toyota forced the site owners to remove the images.  So . . .

2. ... go for the All-Trac wagon version of the FSM.  The only ones I can find are from 1988 1/2 (April 198 and onward. I bought mine on http://www.ebay.com.  You can also try Haynes manuals or use the online manual from http://www.Autozone.com via their Alldata subsidiary http://www.alldatadiy.com.


4. I put on  KYB 343149 GR2 shocks on the rear and they work great.  For springs, I kept the original springs on the rear. For the front, there are no compatible American-market KYBs according to an engineer at KYB with whom I spoke; he did say that they do make KYBs that may work for the European market All-Tracs but I have been unable to find them.  So the only available shocks are the Toyota re-badged KYB -- yes, the original shocks were KYBs anyway.  Go to http://www.carparts.com, http://www.ebay.com or http://www.firsttoyotaparts.com.  Look for my post about these for more information.

5. I found my lever hard to move, but after using it a lot, it loosened up itself -- probably cable stretch.

6. It might be either a bad or flaky water temperature sensor or a clogged radiator or a cooling fan. I would check these out.  For the record, my temperature gauge consistently reads just below midway, save for one grueling 122 degree drive through Arizona where it actually reached about 2/3 of the way.  I do have a clean radiator (flushed with Zerex).  You may also want to check the cables that connect to the engine block. The water temperature sensor is sometimes not attached correctly and can come off; also it is near the distributor and when the distributor leaks oil from a worn gasket, oil can get on the connectors and cause flaky readings.

7. I am also in the LA area (Long Beach) and given the climate, I have used all the types you mention and have not had any problem.  Currently I am using 10W40 due to greater temperatures and high mileage.  I have used both "dino" oil and semisynthethic with no problem.  I get a bit better gas mileage with semisynthetic (Castrol SynTec Blend), but that is probably due to a lower viscosity than any component.  I am considering changing to a full synthetic at my next oil change.  Note: the FSM recommends changing oil at 7.5K-10K intervals (!!) more likely that of a user of synthetic oil than dinosaur petroleum.  I would change the oil more often if you use dinosaur oil.  I suggest a 2000 mile or 3000 mile oil change interval, or before any major road trip in adverse conditions.  I drive my A-T hard and take it to Mexico regularly, so I need frequent oil changes.  For synthetic motor oil, you can extend the drain interval longer. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php for their advice.

8. My A-T is manual, so I cannot help you on the automatic transmission fluid.  But let me look it up in my FSM and get back to you.  

9. I need to check this out ATF in the transaxle: my FSM field service/shop manual says this, too, for my manual transaxle, but I think that this must be a mistake.  Check out a website like http://www.amsoil.com for what they say: use a transaxle fluid like API GL5 or E50 gear oil.  

10. Most of these post-modernist "full time 4WD" decals were for the AE95 Sprinter/Carib, which was a Japan-only version Right Hand Drive.  I suggest trying http://www.outbackimports.ca, a Canadian importer of Sprinter/Caribs, or google Sprinter/Carib for more.  You can also try Toyota, but they seem to be out of decals even for regular All-Tracs.

11. For the miscellaneous parts, you can try a junkyard for these, but most don't fit anything but the A-Ts (All-Tracs).  I get almost all of my miscellaneous parts through http://www.firsttoyotaparts.com and http://www.ebay.com.  I got parts to fix the rear cargo carrier (they call it a "rear package tray") and did it myself.

12. The stuff that works/fits your A-T are the 4AFE engine stuff excluding the transaxle, most interior stuff except for the All-Trac button control and the center console, the sunroof (it's bigger on some A-Ts than regular Corollas of the same vintage), and most body panels and window glass are unique to the A-T.

13. For wheel bearings, I need to check on these in the FSM.

14. Are there any zerk fittings on the vehicle? None that I have found, but dylangumby may know more.

15. There are selling All-Trac CV joints on eBay: http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R4.....t=See-All-Categories

It's nice to know that someone else in the LA area has one of these.  I've only seen 4 A-Ts since I moved down here.  Where I used to live (Bay Area), there were 3 on my block.


1988 AE95 CAT SR5
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phastphil
July 29, 2010, 6:54pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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I am having wheel bearing issues and wanted to know if any information is forthcoming?

Thanks.

Phil
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Ubbm
August 2, 2010, 5:43am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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Quoted from phastphil
I am having wheel bearing issues and wanted to know if any information is forthcoming?

Thanks.

Phil

I had a wheel bearing rumble from the front last November just before I was to take a trip to LA. But I couldn't tell if t was the left or right wheel. So I drove on the hwy till it was noisy then used an infra-red thermometer to check the temp. It was the right side.
Basically I took it apart, took the axle spindle to my local garage and they replaced the bearing for $20.00 as they have a press.
I also did the front brakes, replaced rotors and pads. If you need any other info. let me know. I can walk you through it if you like.


1988 All-Trac Wagon DLX, Blue/Blue, 5-Speed Manual, No rust, 259,000 miles. Engine rebuilt. (Centre Diff does not lock?)
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Ubbm
August 2, 2010, 2:04pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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Quoted from phastphil
I am having wheel bearing issues and wanted to know if any information is forthcoming?

Thanks.

Phil

I had a wheel bearing rumble from the front last November just before I was to take a trip to LA. But I couldn't tell if t was the left or right wheel. So I drove on the hwy till it was noisy then used an infra-red thermometer to check the temp. It was the right side.
Basically I took it apart, took the axle spindle to my local garage and they replaced the bearing for $20.00 as they have a press.
I also did the front brakes, replaced rotors and pads. If you need any other info. let me know. I can walk you through it if you like.


1988 All-Trac Wagon DLX, Blue/Blue, 5-Speed Manual, No rust, 259,000 miles. Engine rebuilt. (Centre Diff does not lock?)
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phastphil
August 2, 2010, 10:33pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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Do you recall how long it took you to disassemble?  Any special tools outside of the 22mm socket?  And where did you get the replacement parts?

Looking at a diagram I see the hub bearing and then I see the bearing inner race outside and bearing inner race inside as well as the outer and inner oil seals.  I am not 100% sure as to what all I need to buy.

I hear the noise from the left front on right turns if memory serves me.  But I am inclined to do all 4 corners of the car since it is 21 years old, 142K miles and I dont have a ton of history on it.  The rear seems a little more involved than the front.

I believe my sending unit is loose in my gas tank and I hear something bouncing around in there and my gas guage is a little slow if not inaccurate.  After my last fill up I only got 21mpg.  Car seems to run great and it passed emissions with flying colors here in California.  I have heard a bad O2 sensor can kill gas mileage...any ideas?

I am going to double check standard tune-up items (plugs, wires, air filter, etc.)

Finally, I want to replace the struts/shocks and springs at all 4 corners.  Do you happen to know a good source?

Thanks again for your response!
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Ubbm
August 3, 2010, 12:59am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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If you hear noise on turns that could be a cv joint and not the wheel bearing. A wheel bearing that is bad will get noisier as you drive and warm it up. A very bad bearing will be noisier on turns.
I would only replace a bad bearing. Bearings go forever until dirt gets in or they overheat. So if it works leave it alone.
If you are sure it is the bearing; you will need a set of metric sockets and a torque wrench. The preload has to be set on the new bearing (90 psi as I recall-better check- I can verify, it is in my manual but I lent it out)  and all the fasteners should be torqued correctly, this your life.
I ordered 2 bearing kits each of which included bearing seal and hub.
Removing the tie rod end; loosen the nut so it is flush with the top of the bolt (this stops damage to the threads) then give it a sharp blow with a mallet, if this doesn't work you have to have a tie rod puller.
Everything else just unbolts. I did have a problem where the rotor was rusted to the hub. WD40. But I was replacing hubs and rotors so I just tossed them.
I don't recall where I bought the parts I just shop around. This week I was looking for a set of tie rod ends and boots and found PepBoys was cheaper than anyone online!
I did the brakes as well and it probable took a day. A mechanic with power tools and a hoist could both sides in 3-4 hours including pressing the bearings.
I haven't messed with the fuel tank or gauge, can't help you there. You can short the fuel gauge wires; wires shorted gauge should read full, wires open- gauge should read empty. If it passes that test the fault is in the sender in the tank.
Good luck. Again if you have a problem, just ask. Hope this helps.


1988 All-Trac Wagon DLX, Blue/Blue, 5-Speed Manual, No rust, 259,000 miles. Engine rebuilt. (Centre Diff does not lock?)
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phastphil
August 3, 2010, 1:54pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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It isnt the clicking noise made by a bad CV.  I am pretty sure it is a wheel bearing.  It makes the droning noise in a straight line although not that bad.  It gets noticeably louder/worse when I make left turns/curves.  

What made you decide to do your hubs as well?  I thought about it but I am not sure I need to do that.

I am going to do my brakes, shocks and springs as well.  I think the shocks and springs are the factory originals.  The car has a crazy amount of body roll and I can only imagine that fresh hardware will improve things greatly.

I have found out that it is easy to over power the stock 13inch tires with braking.  I have locked them up a couple of times.  I think it is a combination of the profile and them being budget tires.  I have a nice new set of 14inch tires but they are on 5lug rims.  If I can find a decent set of 14inch rims I am going to mount those and put them on the car.

The final thing is to figure out my gas mileage issue.  It seems like everyone gets 27-31mpg or so.  I managed 21mpg on my last tank.  It has been fun digging through all the Toyota forums to figure this oddball car out.  I am really enjoying it though.  It really is like a swiss army knife!

It would be nice to grow the forum and get more and more information.

Thanks for your help again.  I am sure I will have more questions!
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Ubbm
August 3, 2010, 3:33pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator
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Hubs: From my experience with having owned a total of 5 Tercels(4wd) in the family (only 3 at one time) when the front wheel bearings go bad half the time they freeze and spin in the hub. So I just ordered a complete kit. As the rotor on that side was totally rusted to the hub I was glad I did.
BTW I found my factory service manual on Ebay.


1988 All-Trac Wagon DLX, Blue/Blue, 5-Speed Manual, No rust, 259,000 miles. Engine rebuilt. (Centre Diff does not lock?)
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JedzWagn
May 11, 2011, 7:58am Report to Moderator Report to Moderator

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1. From the description of my vehicle, can you make an educated guess as to the model trim it has? (e.g., DX, SR5, etc?)

BOTTOM LEFT CORNER OF THE TAILGAT WINDOW WILL SAY SR5 (if it is an SR5) ALSO SR5's have factory mag wheels.
IF YOU DON'T GOT FACTORY MAGS IT AINT AN SR5
SAME WINDOW LOCATION FOR DX - BOTTOM LEFT OF TAILGATE WINDOW. FROM WHAT I KNOW THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN EARLY BASE MODEL & DX MODEL AREN'T HUGE.

2. I'm trying to find a factory service manual (FSM) for this vehicle. I've found some FSMs labeled "1989 Toyota Corolla"- would this include the Alltrac Wagon model, or is there a separate FSM for these vehicles?
THERE'S A SEPERATE ONE. LOOK ON EBAY... SOME PEOPLE DO STOCK THEM. IF THERE'S SOMETHING PARTICULAR YOU'RE AFTER PM ME. I MIGHT BE ABLE TO HELP

3. I have the "Auto" switch in the middle of my dash, but the light doesn't come on when I press it. I read that it won't come on uner certain conditions like different tire sizes on at the same time, but I've just replaced the tires with 4 new 165SR80/13 tires so that's not the problem. Where do I begin diagnosing this?
GET AN AUTO ELECTRICION TO TEST THE SOLONOID THAT ACTIVATES THE CENTRAL DIFF-LOCK

4. I've read about suspension options on here, but I am unclear on what my options are for springs, shocks, and struts. I read someone put on some KYB 343149 shocks on the rear, but I'm looking for more information about springs and also the front suspension (struts)? Any idea what is compatible in terms of springs and struts?
NOT MANY OPTIONS. CONTACT MEMBER 'OLDSKEWLTOY' I THINK HE KNOWS A BIT MORE ABOUT THIS.

5. My temperature control lever is very tough to move. It looks like the cable that leads from this lever to heater control valve has been replaced. Is this a common problem, and how do you go about fixing it?
HAVEN'T HEARD OF THAT PROBLEM.. SORRY

6. The temperature gauge reads a little below the 3/4 mark (not at all in the red). Is this normal?
IN SUMMER TIME, ASSERTIVE DRIVING &/OR HEAVY TRAFFIC - YES - PRETTY NORMAL.
I am used to seeing the temp. read dead center on my vehicles and I become concerned when I see it move due to the dead zones built into them. The gauge doesn't change much whether I'm on the freeway or in slow traffic or with or without AC, so it's tough to tell if it's radiator or water pump related. Any suggestions? Any recommendations for a place to get radiators / water pumps and such?
DESPITE BEING ABOVE HALFWAY IT SOUNDS STABLE. I WOULDN'T WORRY ABOUT NEW RADIATORS ETC. UNLESS YOU HAVE OBVIOUS LEAKS & ARE LOOSING WATER. IN WHICH CASE MANY AE92 MODEL COROLLA'S HAVE SUITABLE RADIATORS & PARTS.

7. The factory oil recommendation is 10W-30 to 10W-40 for my (Los Angeles) temperatures. Do most people stick with these recommendations, or is there any benefit/harm to be gained/done by going with 5W-30 and 5W-40 instead?
IT REALLY DEPENDS ON A COMBINATION OF THINGS

TEMPERATURE WHERE YOU LIVE
AGE & WEAR & TEAR ON THE ENGINE
CLEANLINESS OF YOUR ENGINE
TYPE OF FUEL YOU ARE USING
SYNTHETIC VS. MINERAL

I'D SUGGEST YOU RUN A CLEANSING ADDITIVE TO A FULL TANK OF FUEL THIS WILL HELP CLEAR YOUR FUEL INJECTORS & COMBUSTION CHAMBERS. ALSO RUN A COUPLE OF CLEANSING TREATMENTS THROUGH YOUR OIL, THEN CHANGE YOUR OIL & OIL FILTER.
AFTER THIS, IT'S UP TO YOU TO TRY SOME DIFFERENT OILS.
PERSONALLY I FOUND CHANGING OIL, FUEL & AIR FILTERS, RUNNING THE ABOVE TREATMENTS, NEW LEADS, SOME EXHAUST HEADERS, HIGH OCTANE FUEL & SYBTHETIC OIL MADE A SOLID DIFFERENCE TO AN ENGINE THAT HAD DONE OVER 300K KM'S
BY THE WAY - IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY THESE CARS HAVE A COMPRESSION RATIO OF AROUND 9.5:1 - DON'T BE AFRAID TO REV THEM. TOYOTA TYPICALLY OVER ENGINEERS A LOT OF THINGS - 'TOYOTA TOUGH'


8. The tranny fluid specification is "Type T" fluid. Will Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (multi-vehicle) cover this? It says it covers T-III and T-IV. What do most of you use when it comes to synthetic ATF?
NOT SURE, HAVEN'T LOOKED INTO THIS BUT I SHOULD - ASK A PROFFESSIONAL

9. Am I reading correctly that the front differential is spec'd for ATF?
DON'T KNOW SORRY

10. Where might I find the cool "full time 4WD" decals I've seen on the mid-rear rocker area of some wagons?
THAT MIGHT BE HARD BUT INSTEAD, TAKE SOME IMAGES FROM THE WEB, MEASURE UP YOUR DOORS & EMAIL A FEW PLACES THAT MAKES STICKERS & SIGNS & ASK THEM FOR A QUOTE.

11. I need misc. parts such as the little plastic pieces that go into the ends of the metal supports of the cargo area cover, the hood prop holder (plastic), rear seat folding knob (plastic), grill, etc etc. What is the best source to find these parts and will these parts (minus the grill) work from an '88-89 corolla (non-alltrac)?
SELF SERVICE WRECKING YARDS ARE THE BEST WAY TO GO
2ND BEST IS EBAY
3RD IS SPECIALIST TOYOTA 2ND HAND PARTS DEALER

12. On a related note, what parts are generally compatible between the 88-92 corolla alltrac wagons when it comes to interior / exterior / engine? For example, on the interior, will a '92 dash pad work on an '88 vehicle?  
A LOT OF AE92 COROLLAS OF SIMILAR YEARS 88-92/4 HAVE COMPATIBLE PARTS BUT SOME ARE UNIQUE TO AE95 ALLTRACS

13. Are the wheel bearings serviceable, or are they the permanently sealed type?
DON'T KNOW SORRY

14. Are there any zerk fittings on the vehicle?
WHAT'S A ZERK FITTING?

15. What are some good places for new or rebuilt CV joints and what is CV joint compatibility like with other models/years?
IN AUSTRALIA THE TOYOTA RAV 4 HAS THE SAME CV JOINTS NOT SURE WHAT THIS VEHICLE IS BADGED AS IN THE STATES.
YOU CAN GET GOOD PRICES BRAND NEW ON EBAY. SECOND HAND'S NOT WORTH IT.

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for a great place to get started with my new alltrac wagon!!
IF YOU DON'T ASK - YOU DON'T GET


AKA PrettyCoolWagon  on toymods

https://www.facebook.com/Corolla.Ae95.4wd Like the page...

Changed mind again - photo album/build log
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.272155129596339.1073741831.171307006347819&type=3
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dylangumby
May 15, 2011, 11:18pm Report to Moderator Report to Moderator

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A Zerk fitting is more commonly known as a Grease Nipple... its for pumping grease into a semi-closed system. Usually you pump new grease in with a squeeze gun (like a caulking gun) and the old stuff is forced out the edges of the bearings or whatever its attached to.

This car has none of them. The things that LOOK like Zerk fittings on this car are for bleeding the brake lines, so don't pump grease into them. Theres some located in the rear above the wheel wells inside those tiny little plastic access panels that pop off. I had this confusion myself when I saw them and someone on toyotanation cleared it up for me.


[Current] 91 Sprinter Carib AVII - JDM R.H.D. - AE95 4A-FHE - 176,000km (109,400mi)
[Old] 89 Corolla JDM R.H.D. All Trac - AE95 4A-FE - Murdered by T-Bone 01/18/11 @ 224,000km (139mi) - R. I. P.
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