Hey guys I'm not sure if anyone here has had this problem.

Often when I go to start my rolla, especially in cold weather, I will just get a "click" of the relay without the engine turning. I am 99.9% sure this is caused by worn starter contacts, which are a common problem on all old toyota trucks and cars alike.

I've had difficulty sourcing the contact set and I don't want to purchase a completely new starter for a 10$ part kit.

So my question is: has anyone come across this problem before? And where did you find your parts?

ps- yes I called the dealership.. they pretty much just told me they don't carry parts like that and to buy a new starter

Look in your yellow pages for an auto electric shop. They will sell you the contacts for a few bucks. Try a NAPA store. WHATEVER YOU DO, just replace the contacts. It's easy. Avoid the made in China replacement starters or lousy rebuilt starters. Keep your original starter.
Aside from the contacts, these starters are good for a million miles. Seriously.

Sometimes when starting mine, the car starts fine but theres a grinding noise at the very end. My uneducated guess is that its grinding on the disengage.

Some rare occasions it grinds when I first start the key, but this is VERY rare.

I was going to get a new/rebuilt starter put in, but now I'm second guessing it?

Dylan, It sounds like the starter bendix drive is sticking. Remove the starter. Clean and lubricate the part were the bendix slides on the armature. Might as well replace the contacts in the starter while you have it removed.

I looked on NAPA's site, and it looks like the starter brushes (contacts) are about $20.  The brushes with the holder are $32... I'd consider spending the extra $12 to replace the assembly.  But the shop manual does show how to check if the holder is OK.

Brushes
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ECHE591_0195996523&An=599001+101988+50070+2070008

Brushes with holder
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ECHE608_0065720003&An=599001+101988+50070+2070008

Also someone posted this over at TN:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

You can order contacts (aka brushes) from this place.  They're $5 each (and you need 2), so $10 plus shipping isn't so bad.  There are different types of contacts apparently, I think because there are at least two different types of starters in Toyotas (at least for the All-Trac, in the FSM it shows two types).  So you have to measure to make sure which contacts you need.

I just need to figure out how to get the starter out in the first place (see my other post in the other topic)...

There were 2 sizes of starter used for these vehicles (and many other Toyota's that year) I'm not sure on the exact numbers but it was like a 95kw and a 110kw model were available. I know my car has the 95kw (or smaller whatever the number is) because its from Japan, and vehicles intended to be sold in warmer climates were given the smaller starter.

Canadian models and likely any bound for Russia or Northern Europe would have had the 110kw to give it a little extra spin on those cold days. =P

Ah OK.  I think mine was from Pennsylvania, so I might have the more robust starter.  I'll find out eventually.

So... how did you remove the starter??  I've been hovering around the engine bay for an hour or so, looking for the starter, looking for the bolts that hold it in place, etc.  It seems to me that the easiest method will be to remove the intake manifold... which isn't really all that easy of a method   Partly because it looks like the fuel rail will have to come off in order to remove the intake manifold.  I've never messed with injectors or a fuel rail before... not sure what to expect with that.  I know I'm going to be labeling hoses like crazy so nothing goes back in the wrong place.  Thank God I have the week following Christmas off from work!  I'm going to need it

I have never removed mine, the two models are interchangeable on the 4AFE block I know that much.

You shouldn't have to take all that off to get to the starter?? I'm thinking its more accessible from the bottom?? I don't know though...

Transfer case is in the way from underneath... standing on the passenger side and looking into the engine bay, there is way too much stuff in the way.  Like the intake manifold   Standing on the driver side, I can see the starter through a small gap between the air intake and some other stuff, but there would be no way to get at one of the bolts...

You don't need to remove the intake manifold. There are 2 bolts plus 2 electircal connections. It comes out from the top on the passenger side. There are heater hoses in the way. Just secure them away to the side. The air intake tube needs to come out. There is a small 2 wire diff lock indicator switch under the starter that is easy to damage if you aren't careful (at least on manual transmission cars). I would unplug that connector as well (2 wires).
It's a pain in the a$$ if you've never done a starter before. After you've done it once, it's about a half hour job to remove and reinstall the starter not including replacing the starter contacts. When you replace the contacts, clean the copper plunger contact areas up with sandpaper, too.

My advise is to leave the brushes alone. The brushes aren't causing your problem. Brushes are brushes. Contacts are contacts. They are not the same thing. Don't worry about brushes, brush holders, etc. Just get the contacts. You'll have a chance to inspect the brushes anyway when you have the starter out. My auto electric repair shop sold me the copper contacts for $3. This job is WELL WORTH IT if you're willing to invest a little sweat equity. Hope this helps.

Thanks, it does... I just don't see how I'm going to get the starter out from the passenger side.  Does your All-Trac have power steering?  I think that is also in the way.  I'll check again tomorrow after work.

Should I drain some coolant before removing the heater hoses to make a little less of a mess?  It just seems like an awkward angle, getting at the starter from the passenger side...

Well, there is no way that starter is coming out from the passenger side.  The power steering reservoir and lines are in the way, among other things.  So I've gone ahead with starting to remove the IM in order to facilitate an easier removal of the starter.

This is the biggest opening on the passenger side... I can't get my hand in there very well, let alone the starter once it's removed.



Below is where I'm at so far.  Fuel rail, wiring harness (all the way to the damn alternator, haha), hoses, etc.  Marked everything so I don't screw it up on re-installation.  Tomorrow is removal of the IM, and probably the starter.  If I have time I'll start taking apart the starter solenoid...



I'm going to consider taking my starter to a shop to have it rebuilt, instead of DIY.  Have them check the whole thing, bearings etc., and replace the contacts.  If I had a functional multimeter I'd check everything over myself.  I could borrow one from my stepdad, so we'll see... I just want this to be done with, I haven't really driven the wagon in a while and I miss it

Sorry. I meant drivers side.

For motor 4A-FE released starter power 0.8 kW, 1.0 kW and 2.2 kW. Available in two types, with the usual gear and planetary gear.