Let me begin by saying although the engine is not yet fully assembled, there has been a great deal of work performed on this build well prior to my joining this forum.   Please excuse the posts if something seems a bit askew... some of the posts answer question previously asked in other forums.....

Oh... I do cylinder head porting for a living  

Grunt is my 1989 All-Trac DX sedan




I purchased Grunt last year(Mar 2010), and shortly after I got her I realized she had an "occasional" engine knock(believe it to be a broken ring land).   So the engine knock, got me thinking towards a significant engine upgrade, yet I didn't want to change any of the electrics on the car.   That consideration left me with using a 4AFE engine of some kind........  so I decided on a super duty built 4AFE... add a bit of compression, some head porting to improve flow, and a bottom end that is, to borrow a phrase....,   strong as OX

Before I go on too much further, I should say I've had 2 All-Trac Corollas, the first one was a wagon, it rusted to oblivion in the late 1990s, prior to that I owned an Tercel 4wd(chassis code AL25).  Besides my current All-Trac, I also own a VERY tweaked 175hp AE71 coupe called Surreptitious and my wife owns an AE86 GT-S as her daily.

The next post will begin....

The first part of this thread will be similar to other OST porting threads, but when the head gets finished, the thread will proceed with the rest of the build.





I went and got myself what appears to be a 2nd generation* 4AF head from a 1991 Celica ST so that I could build Grunt's replacement engine (Grunt's lump).   The reason I sourced a 1990+ head was the manifold....

Here are the 2 heads w manifolds



Can you see the manifold on the right is not as convoluted (oddly shaped) as the manifold on the left?  

Here are better photos showing what I'm trying to describe







Now why all that effort for a stock manifold???   Simple really I'm looking for some low end grunt for Grunt.  



Note the solid line represents the new manifold - more torque EARLIER... as well as a touch more top end hp



http://allanpalace.99k.org/4afe.pdf - 4AFE improvements


Speaking about this build.... where are the math experts out there?   I need a compression equation calculated.

bore and stroke remain the same  (81 bore and 77 stroke).  Combustion chamber volume changes from 36.25cc down to 30.25cc.    If using a piston with a compression ratio of 8.9 to 1 when installed under a 36.25cc head, what is that same pistons compression while under a 30.25cc head?????








A basic junkyard head....




I'll begin disassembly in the next day or 2....

What I can tell you from what I've already inspected - Bill Sherwood told me a looong time ago that the F head can be built to pump out some power, but as with the G heads, the "F" heads have some issues that need to be addressed.  

The most significant of these issues are the HORRID exhaust ports - pure crap.    They are soooo bad, I'll need more time to get photos I can post






One interesting thing(not sure if it is good or not) the EGR routing is all internally done inside the head...  Look  at the odd port, and the one on the manifold.... that odd port(tiny round) appears to be a passage through the head to the #4 exhaust port (I'll get a pic later)


Well disassembly offers discovery :tard:

The biggest discovery was why did Toyota screw up the exhaust side of the 4AF head.   When Toyota designed this head, they change #1 and #4 exhaust ports by moving them approximately 10mm closer to the inboard ports




What this does is cause some interference in the #1 exhaust port because of the front oil drain.  




The photo above shows 2 exhaust ports - left one is #1, right one is #4, but mirror image.   The port on the left has a large obstruction on the right hand port wall, that is absent from the mirror image #4 port, and this will be my biggest challenge to overcome.

One other oddity... since the combustion chambers are located in the same place, the 4AF has the front and rear ports flow out of the head @ a shallow angle, instead of straight out of the head like a G head does.  Here is a representation of the flow out of the F head - note the 2 ends flow @ a small angle




Besides the problem of working around the oil drain, the ports themselves are downright economical (brrrrrrrrrr)  The top shows 4AF ports before... the lower photo shows 4AG ports before.  both bad... but the G head is far better......


Ports not to scale.... 4AF ports are same size as 4AG ports at the head exit...  but deep back inside the difference is astounding




The splitter on the F head is just huge.....

Now for some good news, and another discovery.........



F valves are almost 8mm shorter, the intakes are 1/2mm less overall diameter(30mm instead of 30.5), while the exhaust valves are 1mm smaller diameter(24.5mm instead of 25.5)  These facts are interesting because a cut down 4AG valve will allow me an O/S valve option for my 4AF head  :eek:



More good news... those intake ports are neat, and well cast :eek::eek:  



They will need typical bowl work, but the ports themselves are well cast without any obvious mismating flaws



the bowls do need some work, but nothing extreme will be needed.

Quoted from oldeskewltoy;275239

Speaking about this build.... where are the math experts out there?   I need a compression equation calculated.

bore and stroke remain the same  (81 bore and 77 stroke).  Combustion chamber volume changes from 36.25cc down to 30.25cc.    If using a piston with a compression ratio of 8.9 to 1 when installed under a 36.25cc head, what is that same pistons compression while under a 30.25cc head?????

How about 10.1 to 1  


Well, the head is over @ Loynings getting cleaned.   I spoke with Mike and there isn't a great deal readily/easily/inexpensively to do to improve exhaust port #1 without time on the flow bench................



Soooooo, I'm buying a flowbench.......  



Or rather I'm buying the main componenets, and building a flowbench :eek: :eek:


So OST Porting will have a fully operational flowbench by mid January...

something like this \/

Other news on the head...  the 45 degree seat of the valve seats is very tight to the overall size of the seat, so if I wanted to run an O/S valve, even a cut down 4AG, it would need new seats...  

I think as of now the intake valves will get a nice back cut, the intake ports on the head will get a slight tapered shape - to avoid any chance of the port edge being in the air stream.  I'll smooth out the ports like I always do, and once the flowbench arrives, I'll try to figure a way to improve the exhaust airflow


Top panel shows the head after cleaning....



it also shows one chamber having already been modified, can you find the modified chamber and the changes???

Quoted from oldeskewltoy

can you find... ...the changes???

red points out areas around the circumference of the chamber that have been "softened", the green dots are showing irregularities in the chamber that were blended

btw... this is chambers 3 and 4, the chamber with the notes is showing before blending... look carefully and you can see the changes



doing a little work on the intake side... thinning the splitter @ the port roof(NOT thinning it on the floor).  Carefully removing the casting flash, doing a bit of re-contouring around the guides....



that, and massaging the bowls and seats is all I plan to do on the intake side of this head

top panel shows one chamber finished, bottom panel shows all chambers finished...    all the chamber edges have been blended into the surrounding chamber - those on the chamber walls, as well as the machining marks left over


Note the intake bowls are all ready, exhaust bowls, and ports to come



The below photo shows the original obstruction each intake splitter posed, and how I narrowed the splitter to allow for more air




The intake side of this head is now finished, I've beveled the port @ the head to make sure there is nothing in the airstream coming from the manifold.  I've had to "adjust" one of the intake ports on the gasket(about 1mm) to make sure the gaskets edge isn't in the air stream as well.




well, now that the flowbench is just about ready, I felt it was time to set the standard....  so to speak.

The above is my attempt to allow a bit more flow to compensate for an awkward corner.  I've removed quite a bit of material, and smoothed the port walls on the valve side(blind side/important side)so that the amount of the intrusion of the oil return is minimized.  I've also tailored the splitter some as well




This might make it a bit clearer as to why I've spent so much time "opening up" exhaust port #1, even to the extent of changing its shape.  On the left is port #1, on the right is port #4....  note how much of port#1 is being intruded on.

To put it on the flow bench, I'm in need of valves with a good seal.    In the next few days, I'll be cleaning the valves, and lapping them in.  Once lapped in, I plan on getting them back cut.   A friend almost has his lathe up and running, this will make back cutting them easier(cheaper)




Sorry about the shitty photo, but it is shitty for a reason... to draw your attention to the changed shape of the valve.   Note the edge on the lower of the 2 shows a sleeker valve, one with a backcut all the way down to the edge of contact between the valve and seat.



I'm currently working on actuating the valves while on the flowbench.    I had a friend make me an actuator for the G head, but alas, the G head and F head use different sized cam journals

tool for 16V G head



the problem is that tool will not fit in the "F" cam journal since the F journal is smaller.........  


Here is my first idea....    the toggle clamp is fastened to the neighboring journal - this should allow enough clearence for operation



This one doesn't quite have enough reach to it, but I believe I can find* a toggle clamp to accomplish the job......

* - by "find", i mean I'll look, but since this is a cheap crappy Harbor freight tool, I may just modify this one to work as I need it - by taking 2 of these clamps, and extending the arm part of the clamp by about 1 inch, and then moving the entire clamp to be better situated over the neighboring journal

Here is the "new and improved" version - I had a friend weld an extension on to the clamp end so that I can better position the clamp on the neighboring cam journal



The extra size makes it able to be adapted for when I do an 2RZ head later this year :eek:

Well... Jesse and I were finally able to get his lathe up and running, and so Grunt finally got her back cut valves



Taken by phone camera... on the lathe.  The valve on the right has gotten a back cut, the valve on the left is without a back cut.



A bit clearer when I have a better camera




I'm amazed at just how crappy the 4AFE is...  I've shown back cut 4AGE valves before... and they are pretty uniform in shape, well the same can not be said for 4AF valves.  

Exihibit A


Above are 2 exhaust valves from the 2nd generation head (newer then Grunt's head that is still on Grunt)  1st, the obvious... look @ how crappy the valve on the right is shaped...  that is NOT an unequal back cut, THAT is a crappy a** valve!  Note the initial lapping bead IS uniform around the valve.... and the back cuts uniform contact with the lapped part of the valve...  it is just the horrendous shape of the valve that has caused that irregular a back cut.




Now that the valves are ready.... #1 cylinder(exhaust side) is set for testing :eek::eek:






the intake valve showing the back cut

and an exhaust valve with the back cut....



the exhaust valve needs a bit more time with a fine lapping compound

Quoted from from other forum member

Bah! I'm getting impatient. I want to see numbers from that flow bench on Grunt's head.

patience


below is a unique 2 panel photo of the problem exhaust port(#1) inside the 4AFE head... AFTER it has been ported.   Now you have seen the right hand side before, that is the area that has the oil drain that interferes with the port.  What you haven't seen before is the #1 exhaust valve port(left side of photo)   EXTENSIVE work was performed on this port, the roof, and wall were substantially changed








Below is the #4 exhaust port.  You can see FAR less work here... but the reasoning is we are attempting to equalize these two ports.   Take special notice of the left split in the photo below - THAT is how the buggered port above would have looked *IF* Toyota had chosen a better oil return path then the one they did choose



To compensate for the lack of oil drain on this port, just a bare minimum has been done in this port.   You can see extensive roof work, but little else was done on the port walls to TRY to compensate for the crappy #1 port.......




Now for why you are all here....    the results


:eek: :eek: :eek:

Port#1 (problem/extensively ported) .050"=27.4cfm, .100"=52.7cfm, .200" 92.8cfm -

Port#4(no Problem except to leave it mostly alone) .050"=27.8cfm, .100"=54.8cfm, .200"=90.3cfm


They appear VERY close... Now... a bit of averaging... add up what you have... multiply it times 2(after all the valve is @ these points twice in each cycle), now divide by 6 to get an average.........

57.633cc average for port #1
57.633cc average for port #4

"F" YAH  :


For those who might be scratching their heads... the photo below shows port #4, (on top), and reversed to match port #1 (on bottom)

With the head now only needing a very thorough cleaning before final reassembly, I can now move on to Phase 2 of Grunt's lump........



Getting the block prepared to accept all the new parts.



How do you take the crank pulley bolt off when there is no flywheel, or even rods.......  easy you place a socket on the oil feed rail(opposite the oil filter housing), and rotate the crank untill it rests on the socket, and then have at it....



Once the pulley bolt is loose, a small puller is used to pull the crank pulley from the crankshaft



Another secret here...  look inside where the crank pulley bolt had been...  residing in there now is a valve shim... its a perfect fit and and the crank pulley slips off





With the crank pulley off, the rest of the engine gets stripped(oil pump and rear seal housing), along with the removal of the oil filter housing.   This block is now ready for Loynings  = Loynings Engine Service - well known racing engine builder, has vast exp with the Toyota "A" series engines...

Wow.......  drool.......

The US standard exhaust manifold is a lousy P.O.SHIRT



The ONLY thing good is the #1 runner is directed to allow decent flow.... and that is where the "good" ends.   Having #2 flow into #1, and #3 and #4 flowing together is not conducive to optimizeing flow... its for optimizing fitment in a small space. :thumbsdown:

So... I've done a search for headers and there isn't much available... Pacesetter... and a few companies from down under....

Pacesetter -



"Wildcat" headers from ebay.au (down under)




[SIZE="4"]NOT much of a choice....[/SIZE]  


until :eek:

Quoted from from aussie forum

the ae112 7afes came out with extractor style headers, made from mandrel stainless instead of the cast steel

:eek: :eek: :eek:  WHAT????  We never got the 110 bodied Corolla with any of the "A" engines.  The last "A" engine in a US Corolla was 1997....  and whats this about mandrel bent extractor style headers???


I do some serious snooping over @ a toyota parts site and low and behold what do I find in Europe, and Japan...


1997-99 AE111 (NOT a 20V car, but a 4AFE powered - "1997-99 TOYOTA COROLLA (AE111L-AEMDKW)
TERRA EUR SED LHD 4AFE MTM 5F"

Here is what that manifold looks like 17141


manual transmission only...



edited -  I'm trying to purchase this.....  strike that.... now purchased, waiting for shipment

Well, the pistons have been sized and the clearences will be about .005" to .006".  Not as tight as stock(cast piston), but adding the slip coating to the skirts will get the clearence to narrow up to .004" to .005".    Interestingly enough, the 8.9 to 1 Z slugs are larger diameter then the 8.0 to 1 Z slugs -  by .001", or .002"  Typical 8.0 slugs measure 3.1839"-3.1850"(1988 BGB)  The 8.9 slugs I have measure  3.1860 to 3.1862, so even though the 20V block need a thorough honing, std bore pistons will be kept :thumbsup:

The next step is a decision on the rods, and or rods and crank.  The crank that came with the donar block is suitable.  
1) Since the donor was a silvertop, the rods are the 3rd gen rod.  
2) I also have a set of the MASSIVE 2nd gen rods.  
3) And finally, I have a smaller 40/18 crank that has a set of rods that already have been "opened" to accept 20mm pins

This engine will NEVER see 7000, and likely never even see 6500.  The cams are stock, the management is stock.   The only changes will be a ported head, and 1/2 point higher compression.

Quoted from oldeskewltoy;291005

Well, the pistons have been sized

Not as tight as stock(cast piston),

the 8.9 to 1 Z slugs  

  

What?  "Z" slugs?   4AGZE pistons.


I'm sure I've confused some readers.... why is he using 4AGZE pistons?? :confused:



Is it getting boosted.... No... (well maybe, at some time in the future, but that is another time/build)

The reason I'm using 8.9 to 1 cr 4AGZE pistons is simple.  Their volume of 4AGZE pistons and the volume of the original 4AF piston are VERY close, with the 4AGZE slugs adding 1/2 point to the static compression ratio.



That means I can use stouter/stronger internals, and get a mild boost in the compression ratio.  The 4AGZE pistons are forged(strong), and do not suffer from ring land failure.


edited....  a photo I found online showing the changes Toyota did beginning in 1993.  



Note the "new" shape of the 4AFE piston.... looks VERY much like the 4AGZE piston

Quoted from oldeskewltoy;291075

Got word from Craig @ Loynings that they will need to deck the block some....  when they mounted the torque plate.... it didn't want to fully seal (remember Loynings does hone/bore @ engine running temp)

I'll need to know how much the new deck height will be... so I can re-calculate the static compression ratio.  Cutting the deck, or narrowing the gasket are the 2 fastest ways to gain compression.  *IF* static is goes over 10.25, I may need to look into a mild cam... maybe like a redtop grind.  The duration of 4AF cams are reported to be 188 degree, the duration of the redtop cams is 198 degree.  The 10 degrees more duration will lower the measured compression

cut .003", so that will make the deck height .027" which will raise compression to 10.1 to 1, or a 6/10s bump from stock for all the mods, from 9.5 to 10.1.   She may be borderline as to ping(and I'm likely just worrying about nothing)... but the adjustable timing gear should allow me some capability to lower DCR if she does ping.

Oh, the outside of the block has been machined to fit the All-Trac transaxle assembly.  The pistons have been coated, and the crank should get micro polished later this week.   I should be able to pick up all the pieces by next week.   I'll try to get a few pics in the next day or so

shiney part.... ohhhh ahhhhh



not so shiney part... look @ all the flaws on the inside WHERE YOU DON'T WANT FLAWS.

So lets see....   beginning with the overall assembly...  it was a lazy person setting this up, all the pipes miss being centered on the flange - some of this you can plainly see (bottom of "35mm" center pipe, left-bottom of the other center pipe, far right of right side outer pipe, the far left pipe(#4) is the least mismatched.  

The "35mm" is the diameter of the pipe flange, the head is 25mm :eek::eek:  That is WAAAY to much of a jump and the exhaust gasses will really slow down, so I was thinking



if it is possible to make this into a stepped header by running 35mm OD pipe INTO the current header???  Welding the insert pipes with a spot welder At the pipes end, and @ the flange????

Take 3" long pieces and fitting them inside the regular pipe - the only real difficulty would be the #1 pipe because it bends at the flange, BUT if I get the bend right, I might just be able to fit it

Another concern I have is what appears to be a slanted flange where the next pipe mounts...  When I dismantle Grunt to put the new engine in, I'll test fit the header and pipe and see if all will work.

The 7AFE header I purchased cost me $68 shipped :eek:  pretty cheap.... and after I bought it... someone from Ireland sent me this photo.....



Above is the factory 4AFE tube header and downpipe from the 1997+ model!   I'm in discussion right now as to how much this will cost me to get it here.  *IF* I can get it here, I'll turn around and try to sell the shiney chrome one

Well, I picked up the engine parts from Loynings....








As you can see, nice new looking parts!   The gray coating on the piston skirts is to reduce friction.   Also note the squirters are plugged.




Here is the area of the outside of the block that got machined to accept the All-Trac transaxle, the bottom of the 2 panel was before, the top is after





There ARE a few flaws in this shortblock... nothing that can't be used in this application, but flaws none the less. :eek:  

One such flaw, is a water mark left over in one of the cylinders, but that is minor compared to the water mark left in the #2 main journal....  yes, main journal!  :eek: :eek: :eek:



Loynings checked the crank very carefully...  they noted there was nothing raised, and after the micro polishing they told me to assemble it with the same bearings that came out of it! (new replacements of course)




The bearings... I'm going with Toyota OEM.... but otherwise this is somewhat of a budget build, so I'm using Rockauto for the entire engine overhaul kit - gaskets and seals(cost was $120, instead of $250) AND I'm using Rockauto chrome piston rings (cost was $55, instead of $135).  I'm also going to check the original oil pump clearences and if within tolerances - likely use it!

Well.... Bryan got back to me.....   I asked him to get me a measurement of the primaries....

edit - Bryan = the person in Ireland who has the OEM tube header shown above

29-30mm

that is a PERFECT size for 25mm ports coming out of the head.......  


The stock unit is FAR superior to the aftermarket one - figures now it looks like I'll have to open my wallet and pry a few bills loose, or if you prefer a different comparison, bend over and smile.



Well, alltracwagons.net is now caught up.  As I assemble the engine, I'll continue to post more.

Hey OST (IT's PCW from toymods can't change my name to JedzWagn there)  - thanks for joining I'm sure all the guys at alltracwagon are gonna enjoy your detailed posts.

Have you ever considered getting an adjustable cam wheel made up for grunt's 4afe? - just one more thing you might be able to massage some extra power out of...

Quoted from JedzWagn

Have you ever considered getting an adjustable cam wheel made up for grunt's 4afe? - just one more thing you might be able to massage some extra power out of...

  

Take one older 4AGE TODA R timing pulley.....




do some test fitting by removing and discarding   the pulley part....  

... in favor of a new pulley part  

Below are 2 timing pulleys, the small tooth is a 4AG pulley, the larger tooth 4AF(and 4AC as well )



note the diameter and tooth count is the same, the difference is in the spacing (across flat, AND across notch)

This is worth further exploration......



cam hole is the SAME (15.5mm diameter)

but what about the offset.... well here we are off by some.... but not very much




A better representation of the actual difference......



the difference is so small, that test fitting would be in order.   *IF* there was actual interference, then a shim could be used to properly move the pulley to a more proper orientation


Why would I do this???    Well, on a 4AF, both cams are operated by one timing pulley.  Now as it would be with a 4AG, if you deck the block, or cut the head, cam timing is off... so now I have a way to correct the cam timing......

OR if I so choose.... I can dial in a bit more low end torque, by retarding the intake and advancing the exhaust cam timing, or top end power by advancing the intake and retarding the exhaust (I think I've got that combination corrrect) - this is known as adjusting the valve overlap

Quoted from c4ag reference

On twin-cam engines, changing the lobe center separation between exhaust and intake will change the valve overlap.  This can be used to improve top-end or bottom-end, but this depends on the critical placement of the intake closing and exhaust opening events.   The placement of both events has a significant effect on power, i.e., exhaust valve opening determines the beginning of the exhaust cycle and cylinder blow down, and the placement of the intake closing event fixes the balance between cylinder filling and intake reversion.

above reference found here - http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/4A-GE%20camshaft_story.htm

Hey man, AWESOME JOB!

Quick question, does this apply to the 4A-F carbed motor as well? I thought all that the early FE's changed was just fuel injection.

Quoted from darthgrantius

Hey man, AWESOME JOB!

Quick question, does this apply to the 4A-F carbed motor as well? I thought all that the early FE's changed was just fuel injection.

the timing pulley?   Or the overall build???

Well, all the replaceables(bearings, rings, gaskets, seals, etc.) have now arrived.  

If you remember I was planning on re-using the original oil pump.  I disassembled it, cleaned it well, and using the manual (checking both the BT manual, as well as my AE86 manual), this pump was well within specification.  With the pump in spec, I used some assembly lube and re-assembled the pump and installed a new seal.


Well, now that the last component is ready (oil pump check) its time to begin engine re-assembly.  

I use assembly lube (Royal Purple), and I'm not shy with it.  As I already stated it is already in the checked oil pump, and it will be liberally used in the rest of the short blocks re-assembly.

First, I fit the bearings into the block, and the main caps - I do this dry.  Then once the bearings are in, I fit the lower parts of the thrust bearing - for this I use assembly lube to hold the pieces in place.  






Assembly proceeds from there.  I laid the crankshaft onto the bearings AS CAREFULLY as I could.  Once laid on the well lubricated bearings, I rotate the crank to spread the lube around.    I then fit the main caps from #1 back to #5, when I get to #3(the thrust bearing surface) I rotate the crank 90 degrees from TDC(or BDC), this allows me enough room to hold the other half of the thrust bearings while I fit #3 cap.  Finally, I use 2 hammers to set the caps - one hammer has its handle on the top of the cap, the other I use to tap the first, and set the main bearing caps into the block cut out.  

The book recommend 44#s on the mains, done in 2 or 3 passes.  I use my little 3/8" cammed rachet to set the mains in their place BEFORE I make any actualy tightening passes.  I set the torque wrench to 15#s and proceed from the center bearing and move outwards.  After all 10 are done, I repeat using 30#s, and then finish with 44#s.

Once the crank is in, I then fit the oil pump.   If you remember I'm using a Rock Auto gasket and seal kit, the oil pump gasket fit fine, BUT the hole for the oil passage is about 2mm less in total diameter then either the pump, or the block.  I carefully open up the oil passage hole in the gasket so it is flush with the block, and pump oil passage, then using a little bit of FIPG, I seal both sides of the gasket, and fit the oil pump, with new seal, on to the front of the block - tighten all the bolts to 15#s.  

Little bit - skim coat - enough to seal, not enough to squish out any big globs

Now that the crank is in the block, I can proceed onto fitting the pistons onto the rods.   MOST of the 4AG rods have a small dimple in the center of the rods beam - this dimple is to signify direction(which way is the proper way to install it).  



The silvertop rod has no such dimple....  but it does still have a thrust side oiling hole, I look into my older rods, and verify which direction it goes, and fit the rods and pistons together.

Now that the pistons and rods are assembled you might think it is time to install the piston/rod assemblies, and it would be except for one thing....  My ring compressor will likely damage my pistons  

Most ring compressors work on tightening a piece of spring steel around the piston.  Common types are  



or



I have the type on top, it works well


these type of ring compressors push the rings in from all sides, and you are supposed to tap the top of the piston to get it to slide in the cylinder.  



The problem... I don't want to use that type because the slip coating along the piston skirt could scrape off, after all it is only .001", to .002" and anything that squeezes the rings tight enough, will scratch the pistons a bit as they are installed.


Later this week, I'll be asking Loynings if I may borrow their ring compressor, theirs is different.  It is a mildly tapered, machined aluminum housing.  The taper allows the rings to become compressed, and yet it doesn't scratch.



There IS a negative side to that type of compressor... the installer must be careful for the piston can slip in too quickly, which might cause the rod to bang the cylinder wall, or the crankshaft - so care must be used.

Decided on silver....  for 2 reasons...  
1) silver will show me where any/all leaks, while black can hide that
2) I had 3 engine paints on hand, one black, one clear, one silver :lol:





I'll post more when I get to installing the slugs

Thanks for posting your engine build here -- will be great to see the results, and use this as a future reference!

Another quick update...

For $55 shipped, it doesn't pay to even ask if anyone has a 20V/All-Trac oil pan, I just bought a new one from Rock Auto

Good tools are worth their weight in gold....    I borrowed the ring compressor I spoke of, and the install went without a hitch.   Each piston slipped into it's bore effortlessly.... really, it was that easy - I just used my thumbs pressing down on the piston crowns to install the pistons







So with the short block now assembled, I fitted the head... and the "new" header  




I guess it's time to order the Mocal t-stat oil cooler adapter.  The Mocal is a superior unit, especially compared to the original cooler adapter type    

The head is also now re-assembled, I will assemble the whole engine over at the shop I'll be borrowing (shop is available mid June till mid July), its the same place we did the major past-due maintanence on Joanne's car - http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showpost.php?p=278698&postcount=9

I need this shop because the All-Trac drivetrain is a unique challenge to install because it must go in(or out) as a unit.   The shop will allow me to hold the front end of my All-Trac about 4 feet in the air allowing the drivetrain to come down and out the bottom.


More to come........

Quoted from oldeskewltoy

Another quick update...

For $55 shipped, it doesn't pay to even ask if anyone has a 20V/All-Trac oil pan, I just bought a new one from Rock Auto

I bought a 20v oil pan too.
I thought it might help with the grinding of the block that's required for a 4agze install, (not even sure they fit a 16v block)
but now that I've gone 7agze I don't think I'll need it.

Great pics OST

BTW OST, you have some of the clearest photo's I've seen on the net especially when it comes to porting photographs.

Good stuff man.

For anyone who's interested in a video version of what OST is doing here, try this 5 part series on you tube.

I found it very helpful.

It's based on a 1.8L 20 valve engine found in volkswagons,  but for explanatory purposes it's virtually the same as what you need to learn on any of the 4A** series of engines & can help to explain a few of the details that are hard to explain with just pictures & words.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYIUylUW9I&feature=related

Oldskweltoy, can I ask a favor?  Can you snap some pics of the engine bay while the engine is removed?  Also, could you take some measurements of the 4AFE and the engine bay?  Basically, from the spline of the transmission straight over to the front (radiator), and from the spline straight over to where the transfer case is, and from the spline over to the other side of the engine bay (going straight through where the engine sits)... for the engine, basically these points in the pic below (this is not a 4AFE, couldn't find a decent enough pic of that flywheel side).



I'd greatly appreciate it!

apologies to Rogue....  I didn't see your posting till today, so I was not able to get the photos you requested.  Here are the photos from the swap













The main reason for the LOOOOOONG delay in posting is I was having a few issues with the swap after it was completed.   The biggest of which was a serious lag problem - solved once I double checked ign timing and reset it.  There was also 2 faulty parts, one was the TPS (no IDL signal) and the other was the EGR modulator had a torn diaphram causing a vacuum leak.

Ok, the results are she does plant substantially more power now.  I know this because of a long hill near me where she is able to power up the hill in 3rd with 3 people, the same hill previously was not nearly as easy... and that was with only 2 people.  I'm hoping to get Grunt on a dyno later this month, if I do, I'll post up the dyno results.   My guess is she is close to 100/100 @ the wheels.





Besides a cleaner appearance, if you compare the 1st photo in this post, to the last, you can see a few differences.    The most significant of these is the different intake manifold.  And if you look carefully you'll also see the blocked 5th injector line, missing 5th injector from the manifold.  The sharp eyes will also see the original exhaust manifold.  I will need an exhaust shop to make the new header work.  As many of you know the exhaust routing for the All-Trac is different from the fwd models.  Alltrac has a large curve in the down pipe, while fwd downpipes go straight back to the exhaust.  I will need an exhaust shop to make my dual downpipe (straight back for fwd) fit my All-Trac.   Once the engine is broken in, I'll bring the exhaust to a shop so they can modify it to fit.


Speaking about downpipe fitment... what do the folks with 20V swaps do?   Do you just run the exhaust under the transaxle, or did you have to get it customized to follow the factory All-Trac placement????

Loving this build topic.  A friend and I are considering building up my 4AFE, though maybe not quite as much as this.  Who knows, maybe it will head in this direction.

And I keep forgetting that you have a sedan!  Thanks for posting up the pics.  It helps some... unfortunately I don't think I can go with one of my crazy ideas which was using a Honda engine.  Not quite enough room...

Quick question... I thought I had read this here, but searching over it, I guess not.  Can the 1992 style 4AFE intake manifold fit onto a 1988 4AFE block?  The 92 (maybe it started with 1991?  I'm not sure) IM has the shorter runners.  Someone at TN said that the bolt patterns don't match up... but I could have sworn someone said they did match up...

Quoted from Rogue

Loving this build topic.  A friend and I are considering building up my 4AFE, though maybe not quite as much as this.  Who knows, maybe it will head in this direction.

And I keep forgetting that you have a sedan!  Thanks for posting up the pics.  It helps some... unfortunately I don't think I can go with one of my crazy ideas which was using a Honda engine.  Not quite enough room...

Quick question... I thought I had read this here, but searching over it, I guess not.  Can the 1992 style 4AFE intake manifold fit onto a 1988 4AFE block?  The 92 (maybe it started with 1991?  I'm not sure) IM has the shorter runners.  Someone at TN said that the bolt patterns don't match up... but I could have sworn someone said they did match up...

Ill try and fit one soon along with some 5SFE injectors

I got confused on your final header solution,what header did you use? I thought I saw something about a 4efe? Is'nt that 1.3 I have a 4efte for my Tercel (still on the engine stand).

Great information and a great extensive mod.
Just curious, what is your MPG? How does it compare to what you were getting before with less power?

Hey OST,

I've stripped down my 1.8L block - no signs of wear & tear. Everything's beautiful & well oiled. (Thankfully)

I'm ready to fit forged rods, however the manufacturer of the forged rods advises to check that all the internal diameters of the con-rods match the crank.

Not sure if I should do this myself or take to an engine builder...

What's the best measurement tool to use for these kinds of tolerances? Micrometer?

Cheers

Quoted from JedzWagn

Hey OST,

I've stripped down my 1.8L block - no signs of wear & tear. Everything's beautiful & well oiled. (Thankfully)

I'm ready to fit forged rods, however the manufacturer of the forged rods advises to check that all the internal diameters of the con-rods match the crank.

Not sure if I should do this myself or take to an engine builder...

What's the best measurement tool to use for these kinds of tolerances? Micrometer?

Cheers

or a decent caliber





again apologies for being absent......


There are a few different heads, but in essence there is a low port type(87-92) and a couple of high port types(93+).

There is at least 2 designs of intakes for the low port head, there is the AE95 type, 88-89, and then there is the 90-92 type.  the 90-92 is a shorter runner intake manifold.  I can't swear that the heads are the same and so the intakes should swap... but I BELIEVE all pre 93 heads can use ANY pre 93 intake - short or long runner.



The header I purchased from Ireland....


I CAN'T use the header yet... this is because the All-Trac downpipe is curved so that it can clear the E55/E57 All-Trac gearbox, the header downpipe is designed to fit the fwd model, and as you see runs straight back.  Before I can use the header, I'll need to rebuild the downpipe to follow the curve needed.   Because of this, I'm STILL running the crappy log type manifold.

Now that the engine has been in for the better part of 1000 miles I decided to go to the dyno  





Hmmmmm, seem disappointed with those numbers... but NOT disappointed with the torque "curve"... or should I say torque flat.    The torque peaks @ 2700 now, instead of 4800.  The torque is very linear and supplies 90% or more of the torque from 2000, to 5550 rpm.


Now for the numbers....  I am disappointed.  David Huang who runs Forged Performance (tuner shop with the dyno) said that it has been his expereince that EVOs usually have a drivetrain loss between 28% and 31%  .   That seemed awful high to me until I did some research....  

The whole drivetrain loss subject is VERY interesting.  It appears different AWD drivetrains have different losses.  The Subaru drivetrains tend to lose about 20%-25%, EVOs tend to lose 25%-30%   All-Trac Celicas are often at, or close to 30%..........  

BUT.........  There is also arguments that MOST systems don't lose a set percentage, but they lose a set number (the Subaru guys say 60hp), and then as power increases, there is a small additional amount of power lost do to the additional power causing SOME additional loss but not a set percentage for the entire loss.

So what do I use to back calculate the All-Trac in the Corolla???   I couldn't tell you, because I find NOTHING related to the All-Trac Corolla drivetrain.  Now the All-Trac drivetrain is similar to the Celica system - both use E series transaxles, the big difference is the Corolla uses a solid axle in the back, while the Celica uses an independent rear.  So if I use 30% drivetrain loss, then my flywheel hp # would be @ 102hp, and torque would be a grunt-like 110#/ft

MY opinion:   I'm in the BUT catagory of believers.  I believe there is a set drivetrain loss, and then as power is added (with mods) the loss increases but at a small percentage rate then the initial loss.   So what is the E series All-Trac drivetrain loss?  Your guess is as good as mine


One VERY interesting note... Grunt's first pull was HORRIBLE... netting a paultry 58hp, and 60#/ft.   I was feeling quite embarrassed... but they took a look @ how she was on the dyno** and noticed that the tires were quite deflected (under inflated by about 6-8#s)  The brought the tire pressures up and the result is the reading above


Here is what I can tell you..... The final torque # is ABOVE the final hp # (72hp to 77.5#/ft).  This is substantially different from the stock engine where there was more HP, then torque.  Also the new engine is far stronger then the engine that came out... I can only guess @ what that engine would have planted

Hmmmm, good reading here - http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-1005-drivetrain-power-loss/index.html


** - see next post for more details....

Some perspective..........
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/previous-nsw-events/27-***-dyno-day-history-lesson-***.html

do a page search for 4a-fe, and 4afe.  the three listings show 2wd versions.  Those engines planted 61.4hp (45.8kw), 65.1hp (48.5kw), and last 69hp(51.5kw).  That makes my 71 hp more ... and in 4wd, it looks pretty good.  

While searching I did find a few other 4AFE dyno results, but the only one I found running mostly stock planted 77hp, and 80 #/ft, but again that is in 2wd and not using a Mustang dyno, but a dynojet




Here is a stock 7AFE... on a Mustang dyno, but again it is 2wd

Quoted from from the proverbial other forum

but you did dyno in 4wd?

I'd be curious to see what it would dyno at in 2wd mode (for those that don't know the corolla alltracs have electronic selectable 4wd)...... because I believe the alltrac ae92/5's have 60/40 or 70/30 (I can't remember) with the latter number the figure to the rear.... so if you dyno'd at 71.7whp in 4wd mode..... how does the dyno calculate the variance in power between the front and rear?

Is that figure just the wheels with the highest power?  A comination between the two (which would skew the figures down)? or....?

I know that it is possible to make the Celica all-trac drive in just fwd... or I believe I read that.   The All-Trac system in Grunt doesn't allow just 2wd, it is full time awd, and you can lock up the center diff.  The runs were done with the center diff unlocked, but the system was driving all of the drums, one in the rear, and the 2 in the front.  

The Mustang dyno is such that you set the rear drive wheels on the top of the rear roller, and then ideally it is set to length to run the front tires in the "V" between the 2 front rollers.   Grunt is shorter then their unit was set to, so the rear tires were on the rear roller, but the front tires were not fully in the "V", but were propped against the rearward of the two front rollers.

But getting back to your post... these pulls(4 total - the one with low tire pressures, and 3 others) were all done in 4wd, so comparing my numbers to any other 4AFE powered AE9x would pretty much require their pulls to be on a Mustang dyno, and in an AE95 to even know how well she actually did.   OR to know the drag/power loss the E55/E57 all-trac gearbox is when fitted to an AE95


Btw.... all these numbers are @ the wheels... the only "flywheel" numbers are in the 1st post and those are loosely based on a 30% drivetrain loss.  I had hoped to find a few dyno runs in this forum, but when I checked I found no other 4AFE, E55/E57 equipped runs to compare them too.

Well........ Grunt took her first trip since getting her new lump(but before the dyno).   Joanne (my wife) and I went down to Bend Oregon(162 miles one way).  


We took the route 26 pass over(alongside) Mt Hood, and then proceeded through the high desert decent just north of Warm Springs.   On both journeys (out and back) Grunt performed well......  
  VERY well!!!

going up the mountain, and travelling down into, and then out of the high desert river valley Grunt was able to keep mostly in 4th or 5th gear... Passing was easy....  going up hill or down she pulled like a mule.  

Not only did she pull like a mule, but she drank like a petite lady... averaging a tick over 26 mpg... or 198 miles covered(162 hard, hilly highway, and 36 city) while just using 7.6 gallons of regular fuel!!!  Not bad considering the time spent going up hills and maintaining 80 mph in most of the level roads between Mt Hood and Redmond AND that she is 4wd!!!

OST, a very interesting post.  I have always wondered why I don't get much power unless I have high revs.  
I am considering (sometime in the far future when I get the time and space) making some of the modifications that you did to your 4AFE to shift the torque earlier, but it will be a learning curve since I have no experience with engine tuning, head porting, etc.  But that's where the fun comes in  . . .

Thanks for sharing all the results... I'm curious how much difference the exhaust manifold will make when you get that sorted.  Will you go with larger diameter than stock for the exhaust piping?

Hi OST,

Just to be clear on this build.
Which block and crank did you use? I noticed you mention machining the block to clear the transaxle, which leads me to think it's not the original block?? I was thinking it was a 20v but the dyno sheet also lists it as a 1.8L engine?!?
Please clarify.


I have 3 engine builds in mind for each of my wagons due to a build up of parts from changing my mind on the ultimate build over the last 18months or so..
The 3rd build runs along similar lines to your build thread... So I have a few questions regarding that particular build.

For anyone else reading..
The builds are as follows:
1) Currently building my ultimate AE95 ride with all the options like steel sun roof with tinted wind deflector, monsoon deflectors for the driver and passenger windows, power steering, power windows to be swapped in, alloy bullbar, roof rak, tow bar, fog lights, roof mount headlight rack, oversized rims and tyres with suspension raise etc. etc. Designed for camping fishing snowboard trips. ..maybe even towing a small camping trailer. So she's gonna be a pretty heavy beast.
For this reason I'm building a 7AGZE to move all that weight. The 7A block already has a notch for the transaxle in the block and oil pan, not sure if it's enough to clear 'as is' or of it'll still need some machining (GRINDING! )
For extra grunt and keeping with toyota's over-engineering ethic I'm using:
7A block that's had oil squirters machined in
7A crank and flywheel that's had 3 hardened steel dowels machined in (to resist shearing the 6 flywhel bolts)
sc14 supercharger with sc12 pulley
3SGTE throttle body
Yet to purchase a custom plenum
home made resin 'intake to head' adapter plate
New 430cc injectors
forged h-beam 7A rods
OEM forged 8.9:1 GZE pistons
bigport GZE head
NA bigport cams
Heavy duty clutch
Cusco 2way rear Limited Slip Diff
Will get custom headers and exhaust made up
haven't figured intercooler & piping yet
All managed by OEM ECU, HKS 4AGZE piggy back and HKS Graphics Control Computer


2) Build 2 will be a 4agze left overs build. lowered for daily street use. The left over parts list follows:
Mostly 4agze small port engine & loom MINUS 8.9:1 pistons
Instead I'll be using the left over 8.0:1 pistons from the bigport.
NA bigport cams
Also driven by a sc14 using full over/under drive pulley kit
will use cheapo chinese intercooler & piping
Using common aftermarket header

3) 1989 4AFE spruce it up, mildly supercharge it and give it to my mum. Here's the idea...
I have a sc12 supercharger
4agze factory topmount intercooler
I was really interested to see you use a pre 1993 short intake runner. If I CAN'T find one over here, would you be able to source one and post it over?
Port the head as you have done in this thread..
gze rods DO YOU KNOW IF CAN THEY BE USED with 4afe crank??
..some GZE or 2nd gen AFE pistons... or else just use the originals
5SFE injectors. They have a higher cc per minute rating than 4afe injectors but run on the same amount of ohms http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Injector-Flows/A_0102/article.html
7AFE head gasket.
Home hardware style cold air intake and heat shielding from the engine/radiator
Home made adjustable cam gear ^^^as you showed in this thread already^^^

QUESTION:, Do you think 7AFE or later model 4AFE cams would fit straight into 1st gen 4afe head?
Based on the specs below there could be some advantages.

4AFE

1st GEN
Overlap: 9.00 degrees
Intake Duration: 220.00 degrees
Exhaust Duration: 220.00 degrees
Intake Installed Centerline of 104.00 degrees ATDC.
Exhaust Installed Centerline of 107.00 degrees BTDC.
6.6MM lift in/ex
30mm int diameter 24.5mm ex dia
the amount of ²cm  of air coming in through the intake valve is 12.440696 ²cm

2nd GEN
Overlap: 8.00 degrees
Intake Duration: 224.00 degrees
Exhaust Duration: 224.00 degrees
Intake Installed Centerline of 106.00 degrees ATDC.
Exhaust Installed Centerline of 110.00 degrees BTDC.
7.6MM lift in/ex
the amount of ²cm  of air coming in through the intake valve is 14.803172 ²cm

(can't find any specs on 7afe OEM cams)

I'm thinking, if they can drop straight in, there's a few options.
1) completely swap in both intake and exhaust 4afe2ndGen (or 7afe cams
2) just swap in the 2nd gen intake & leave the 1st gen exhaust
3) just swap in the 2nd gen exhaust & leave the 1st gen intake.

Not sure what the resulting outcome of each of these 3 options might be..
Care to take a stab?
You understand cam spec's and operation better than me.

OST, Did you end up doing the intake manifold?
I'm going to a pick and pull this week to get a couple.
Also, the headers from Ireland look like the same ones I saw on a early 90's fwd GT-S last weekend. I may be pulling that whole engine and try some things out.